Australia

Australia Port Notes

The information on this page is current as of October 2002.

General Information

Australia is huge -- the size of the continental United States.  It is impossible to see it all in one cruising season, or even in several, but it's fun trying.  Australia is a magnificent country chock full of friendly, smart, assertive, fun-loving people.  We have really enjoyed living here this past year..

Sydney Harbour

Books & Cruising Guides

Sydney Regional Boating Directory 2002 -- excellent free pamphlet with harbor map & marine listings, PO Box 758, Rozelle, NSW 2039, Australia; sydcampton@mpx.com.au; 011-61416-220-060

Cruising the New South Wales Coast, by Alan Lucas (widely available)

Navigation

The most important thing to know when sailing in Sydney Harbour is this:  FERRIES HAVE ABSOLUTE RIGHT OF WAY over every other vessel, regardless of type or direction.

The second most important thing to know is that Sydneysiders love to sail, and they particularly love to have regattas, and they do it on the Harbour every day the wind is blowing anything below about 45 knots.  Expect much traffic of all sizes, especially on weekends.

Special Events

If you can be in Sydney on a boat for only about a week, come for Boxing Day (the day after Christmas) through New Year's Eve.  On Boxing Day, thousands of boats turn out in very festive style to send off the Sydney-to-Hobart Yacht Race.  On New Year's Eve, the city puts on an unparalleled fireworks display over the Harbour Bridge and at various other locations on the water.  Be sure to pick up a local newspaper designating "no-go" zones during these events.

Mooring Balls

Most of Sydney Harbour's countless bays are lined with mooring balls, usually occupied.  These moorings are all private, owned either by the yacht owner or by a yacht club or marina that leases them out.  The rule of thumb, however, is that any unoccupied mooring may be picked up, as long as one is willing to vacate it immediately should the owner return, or is willing to pay the nightly fee (usually about Aus$30-40) should a club rep come by to collect.

Anchorages

Sydney Harbour has literally hundreds of anchorages to choose from.  The Sydney Waterways Authority enforces a local ordinance, however, that nobody may live aboard their vessel in Sydney Harbour at anchor or on a mooring for more than 3 successive nights, totaling no more than 21 nights in any calendar year.  Technically, this rule applies to  foreign yachts as well as to local ones.

Now, as a lawyer, I am of the opinion that the local "no liveaboard" ordinance would not stand up against the national permission implicit in the Cruising Permit to live aboard one's boat at any anchorage in a port specified by the Permit.  Although local rules may of course restrict anchorage areas (for fairways, coral preservation, etc.), they cannot supercede the Cruising Permit to forbid sleeping aboard one's boat at any anchorage deemed otherwise legal.  However, the issue would probably have to go to court to be decided, and no cruiser is there long enough to hassle with it.  Moreover, there is an apparent "don't ask, don't tell" de facto policy to allow foreign liveaboards in Sydney Harbour so long as they don't call too much scenery-detracting attention to themselves (laundry fluttering from the backstay, etc.) or remain in any one place for too long.  So my advice is keep a low profile and keep moving, and you probably won't have a problem enjoying glorious Sydney for a cruising season.

If the Waterways Authority starts getting sticky, however, you can always go to a marina.  Anyone may live aboard their vessel if it has holding tanks and if it is docked at an "approved" marina -- that is, at a marina with a sewage pump-out station.  There are only two such marinas, and they are discussed in the section below.

As a last-ditch bailout, take a left out of Sydney Harbour and sail 10 miles north to Broken Bay, for gorgeous national park cruising in the huge Pittwater area.

Here are notes on a handful of the hundreds of possible anchorages in greater Sydney Harbour.

Marinas

There are about 80 marinas in the Sydney area.  Here are notes on the ones we have visited.  For contact info on the others, order the Boating Directory listed above.

Marine Vendors and Services

All services and parts are available in Sydney, but vendors are spread out all over the city and its suburbs, and not in any one convenient area.  Because there are so many thousands of local motor and sailing yachts owned by people who live on land in Sydney, the marine industry here has evolved with no focus whatsoever on cruising yachts or liveaboards.  For example, the main branch of the best chandlery (Whitworth's) and the main chart agent (Boat Books) are in the middle of the shopping district of a land-locked northern suburb, far more than walking distance from the nearest anchorage.  Moreover, since well-heeled Sydneysiders are apparently willing to pay more for equipment and services for their hobby-boats than most cruisers (who have a better idea of prices available elsewhere) are willing to pay, voyagers will find parts and services to be expensive.  However, services and equipment are generally of reasonably high quality, though in general we were not impressed with customer service.  Consult the "Vendors We Like" table at the bottom of this page to find a list of the Sydney marine services with which we were very happy.

The bottom line is this:  If you are in Sydney and need repairs, you can have anything at all done here.  However, if you plan to visit southern Queensland (Southport, Brisbane, Mooloolaba) and can wait until then for repairs, then you will get better value for money and more convenient access to vendors.  Of course, if you plan to visit New Zealand, you are probably better off -- both in terms of money and quality -- having all your work done there.

Fuel

The fuel dock at Rushcutter's Bay is deep-draft but extremely busy most of the time.  The fuel dock at Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron, Kirribilli, is very shallow-draft.  We ended up calling one of the many fueling barges, which will come alongside anywhere by appointment.  We got clean fuel at a price cheaper than the docks quoted.  Warning: If you don't specify in advance, they will use a relatively high-pressure hose more suitable for large commercial vessels.  Also, put out plenty of fenders long before the scheduled time, and they will tie up to the side with the fenders on it.

As we either stayed in a marina or used our watermaker, I have no information on availability of water.

Ashore

Transportation:  Public transportation in Sydney is superb -- clean, fast, and efficient.  Given the complete absence of affordable parking spaces, the extreme narrowness of lanes, and the high density of road traffic, owning or renting a car is not particularly sensible for the short-term (or even the long-term) visitor.  You can buy a daily, weekly, or quarterly bus-train-ferry pass that will take you anywhere in the city and suburbs that you want to go.  The ferries in particular are lots of fun and go everywhere.  We bought a car, and frankly -- except for sightseeing road trips outside Sydney -- it was more trouble than it was worth.

Shopping:  The shopping in Sydney is world class.

Restaurants:  Restaurants are excellent here, especially Modern Australian, seafood, Thai, and Indian.

(But as usual in the southern hemisphere, don't go into a Mexican restaurant if you are a Tex-Mex fan or Californian- Mexican-food fan.  The margaritas are good, but the food will only break your heart.)

Best food of all is if you can wangle an invitation to a barbecue dinner at someone's home.  But our restaurant favorites are these:

Sights:  Our Top 10 favorite things to do in Sydney are, in no particular order:

Sydney to Brisbane

There are many ports and anchorages between Sydney and Brisbane, but with the exception of the Gold Coast (discussed below), we did not stop.  The main reason is that all are protected from the Tasman Sea by a "bar entrance" [but see local-knowledge correction below].  A bar entrance is a shallow sand bar over which one must travel to enter the sheltered port or anchorage.  These bars are more difficult to navigate than reef entrances without local knowledge.  They often have breakers the entire width of the entrance, and the depths are in constant flux from tides and storms.  For shallow-draft vessels, it is probably worth it to call the Coast Patrol for the port on VHF 16 to discuss the conditions over the bar and give it a go if things seem OK.  For a vessel that draws more than say 6 feet, you may want to think twice.  Some local advice that we took to heart is "do not underestimate the danger of a bar entrance."

Here is some verbatim local knowledge sent to me by an Aussie voyager (thanks!!): 

"One technical point that's not correct [in this section of your website] is the comment that all the harbours between Sydney and the Gold coast have bar entrances. This is true of nearly all of them, but there are three important exceptions - Newcastle (a large shipping port but with a recently built marina), Coffs Harbour, which is a smallcraft port of entry and only closes in very heavy onshore weather - there is no river flowing into the harbour, so no sandbar forms - its just that the entrance is shallow enough to cause really large waves to break, and is not very wide. The third exception is Port Stephens - the beaconed entrance does have a bar, which can become dangerous in very heavy SE swells, but it's partly protected by nearby islands, and there is a much deeper channel close beside the cliffs on the Southern side of the entrance. This has remained stable for the 30 years that I've been cruising. It's not beaconed, but quite obvious on the chart. Regards - wishing you calm seas and fair winds - Andrew"

Brisbane Area

The Brisbane area is where the vast majority of the cruising fleet stays for the southern summer cyclone season.  Here the voyager will find a large, good quality marine industry for re-fits and maintenance.  The three main areas for summer dockage are south to north (1) Southport Yacht Club, on the Gold Coast (contact Alister, 07-5591-1911); (2) Brisbane city, where one can anchor in the river or tie to pilings as well as dock; and (3) Mooloolaba, the most popular spot for the American cruising fleet this past year.

Brisbane to Cairns

Cruising Guide:  Cruising the Coral Coast, by Alan Lucas (widely available)

[More detail later.  Ran out of typing energy.]

Cairns

Cairns to Cape York

Navigation  

Route:  If you stay inside the Great Barrier Reef (as we did), the waters are much calmer than outside, and the mileage is shorter, but the navigation hazards are not to be underestimated.  Hint: Get Australian government charts (as opposed to DMA or British Admiralty), which show the excellent "recommended route" through reefs and islands.  The many commercial cargo ships that go up and down the coast follow this route exactly, but they usually go right down the center of it.  Accordingly, if you plot waypoints to keep you on the outermost edge, just barely inside the route, you will minimize both natural hazards and shipping hazards.   Still, traveling in daylight, if possible, with a constant lookout is recommended.

Tides:  It is crucial to know the state of the tide for some anchorages, for Albany Passage, and for the sleigh-ride from Cape Don to Darwin further on.  Accordingly, don't leave Cairns without a Cairns tide table and a Darwin tide table.

Anchorages

Expect almost every anchorage between Cairns and Cape York to be very shallow, somewhat exposed, and subject to swell.  We ended up doing some overnighters, despite the navigation hazards, simply because it was just as comfortable underway as at anchor, and at least we were making some mileage.  Here is a list, from south to north, of reasonably secure and comfortable anchorages of which we have firsthand knowledge (the asterisks denote the only truly well-sheltered places):

*Yorkey's Knob (Half Moon Bay Marina): Great place to provision for entire trip north with free shuttle to Woolworth's and Cole's. 

Low Isles:  Take a free national park mooring, or anchor just outside the moorings in 20 feet of sand.  Ashore is lighthouse and small beach.  Snorkeling excellent.

Hope Island: Difficult entrance; many bommies.  Approach only in overhead light.  Anchor 10 feet sand.

Cape Bedford: Secure and comfortable for shallow-draft boats that can tuck up close to shore.  For the rest of us, expect only moderate shelter and a serious roll, except in very calm conditions.

*Lizard Island:  Plan several days or more here -- do not miss.  Best anchorage is Watson's Bay, beside large, easily visible center reef in 10-15 feet of sand.  Superb lagoon; excellent hike to "Cook's Look" from national park beach; interesting tour of Barrier Reef research station.  No stores or facilities ashore, but yachties have "happy hour" on beach most nights.  Small, somewhat snotty resort ashore.  Resort dive boats, if not full, will take you to world-class diving on outer reef.

Howick Island:  Anchor right in the center of the island (reefs at each end) in 30 feet mud.  This doesn't look like much of an anchorage, but it was fine even in a southerly blow, and the swell was not bad at all.  Warning:  Approach to Howick Island is best via the very narrow North Channel, which is also the only available channel for deep-draft vessels to transit that area.  Keep in mind that vessels restricted by draft have right-of-way over sailing vessels at all times except when overtaking.  They will broadcast their positions and schedules on Channel 16.

*Flinders Group.  Anchorage is in the channel between the islands, with all the prawn trawlers.

Morris Islet:  We have been warned not to anchor at Night Island, which is the only other anchorage nearby.

*Margaret Bay:  We did not follow the approach suggested by the cruising guide, as it was way too shallow for us (7.5-ft draft).  Instead, go northeast around the little northern islets and then straight to Sunday Island, then southhwest to the anchorage, making certain to miss the shoals due south between Sunday Island and the mainland.  The water gets to be about 18 feet a couple of miles from shore, and it stays that depth until you get well in.  Anchor in 14 feet sand, good holding, good shelter.  Gorgeous, endless beach and breathtaking sunsets.

Escape River: Anchor in northern branch, near pearl farm.  Beware shallow water near entrance.  From here, you can stage your daylight transit of Albany Passage (cutting off many miles) to Cape York.  The current through Albany Passage can be up to 4 knots, so read the cruising guide and plan to go on the proper tide, so that the current will be with you, not against you.

Thursday Island:  From speaking to many yachties, we were of the opinion that the only reason to go to Thursday Island is if you need stores or parts for the passage to Darwin -- so we did not stop here.  However, I got this email from a cruiser on Thursday Island, who clearly knows more about the Thursday/Horn Island area than I do, and now I am sorry that we did not stop.  The email from Thursday Island reads:

Hi there. Just browsed your website and would like to comment on YOUR comments re Thursday Island. We have been here for 4 /12 years after only planning to stay 4 weeks. During the southeasterlies the Horn Island anchorage is excellent. No problems for us. Thursday Island during the northerlies is the place to be. Transport between both islands is great if you have a decent dinghy. Mind you I have transited in a 10' with 5 hp for over 9 mths whilst working on T/I and mooring on H/I. Must say though got a bit wet.  The people are amongst the friendliest you could wish to meet. Provisioning is possible through Ibis Supermarket although a little expensive. Most people get things sent from Cairns on board Seaswift Barges, takes about 1 week. Work is easy to obtain. I had a job within 24hours of arrival. I now manage a resort on Horn Island called the Gateway. Has its own Museum and pool and 22 rooms. Fully licensed restaurant and bar. Most people don't give us a go here but believe me it is certainly a place not to be missed. The origin is mainly Melanesian or Polynesian extraction on Thursday Island and Aboriginal extraction on Horn Island. Please don't tell people to bypass as we are really worth a look. Thursday Island has 5 hotels ranging from 5 star to 2 star, and each of these provide either bar meals or a fully licensed restaurant. We have a Bowls club that has fantastic social bowls (another name for a lot of social drinks) on a Thursday Night and a boat club that provides excellent entertainment most nights. Yes the Island closes down about 12-00pm but by this time you are ready to go back to your boat. The only thing that you have to be careful of is leaving your dinghy over night. Because the ferries between the islands finish at 7-00pm and sometimes people "BORROW" your dinghy to get home. You always find it the next day. Hope you will not bypass next time Regards, Yacht Sunburn, Thursday Island, Far North Queensland Australia 

Possession Island:  Good place to stage 800-mile passage to Darwin.  Going here from Cape York makes for a shorter trip than going via Thursday Island (but see above).

Ashore & Activities

There's very little in the way of urban civilization between Cairns and Darwin.  Exploration is the order of the day, and very rewarding.  Not much has changed on this coastline since the dawn of time.

Croc Warning: All things considered, it's definitely safer not to snorkel one's anchor at most of the coastal anchorages.  Where the ocean and freshwater rivers come together, and for a wide area nearby, one will usually find saltwater crocodiles.  It is wise to read up on the habits of these very dangerous predators, which are all big -- some up to 20 feet.  Every single year, several tourists and/or yachties are attacked, sometimes fatally.  Taking local advice, we did not go into the water -- except at Low Isles and Lizard Island, which are well offshore -- the entire transit of this coast.  Nor did we take the kayak or dinghy near estuaries.  Cruiser myth has it that salties do not swim in clear water.  Not so.  It's just that murky water is even more dangerous because one has no hope whatsoever of seeing the crocs.  Salties can swim and run for short distances at speeds of up to 20 mph, and they can leap straight up out of the water a distance at least twice their own length.  If it sounds like I'm trying to scare you, that's right.  The threat of salties should not be underestimated. 

Darwin (October 2002)

We like Darwin a lot.  It's nice and sunny, and the people are laid-back and very friendly.  No problem finding whatever you need here.  Marine workmanship has been excellent so far.  Lots to do and see here, so try not to rush through like we have!

Books & Cruising Guides

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