Viti Levu (the mainland)
Lautoka
Anchorage: 17deg35.8'S,
177deg26.5E, mud bottom 32-50 ft. We anchored four times at different
spots, very far apart, in this area and each time were told we were in the
fairway and needed to move. We never figured out where the fairway
was. I suspect the port authority may have been having some fun with the
American yachties.
Arrival: Upon approach to Lautoka Harbour, call Lautoka Port Control
on channel 16 to announce arrival in the harbor from a foreign port.
Port Control may or may not respond. Unless instructed otherwise, anchor
northeast of Queen's Wharf (leaving a good-sized turning basin for cruise
ships & freighters at the northern side of the wharf). Yachts do not
have to go to the quarantine anchorage marked on the chart. After
anchoring, contact Port Control if you have not reached them previously, and
they will tell you to bring your dinghy into Queen's Wharf for check-in.
We have heard that it is not a good idea to take the dinghy in before this
authorization is obtained. The dinghy landing is on the north side of
the wharf complex. The Customs House is the structure to the
southwest.
Town: After check-in, taxis into town are available at the Customs House. It
is about a 20-minute walk into Lautoka from the dinghy landing. In Lautoka is a reasonably good produce market, many shops,
a movie theater, and at least 2 grocery stores. We could find no
chandlery. At the produce market one can buy kava-root for mandatory
presentation to village chiefs upon visiting outer islands. Kava root is
sold by the kilo; about 1/3 to 1/2 kilo is appropriate per village. Lautoka is the main urban center for Fijians of Indian
descent, and it is the capital of the sugar cane industry. The city itself is bustling, loud, and hot, but it has a few
charming nooks, including the market, and some interesting architecture.
We found no good restaurants.
Cruising Permit: Also in Lautoka is the office of the Commissioner, where one
may secure a cruising permit to visit the islands of the Mamanuca and Yasawa
Groups of western Fiji. No permit is necessary for the mainland.
The Lautoka office does not issue cruising permits for any of the islands
south or east of the mainland (such as Kadavu, the Lau Group, or Taveuni); one
must travel to Suva (either by boat or via 3-hour taxi or bus ride from
Lautoka) to get a permit that covers all of Fiji. We spent our entire
time in the Lautoka/Nadi/Mamanucas/Yasawas area, so the western permit was
sufficient for our plans. The agent Yacht Help can obtain a permit for
all of Fiji if one uses them for check-in.
Exit: After initial check-in, every single time one enters or leaves Lautoka Harbour, one
must check in or out -- an abbreviated procedure not involving any fees.
One may check out by taxi from Vuda Point. For final clearance out of
Fiji, one may pay taxi fare and a a F$165 fee to have officials come to Port
Denarau or Vuda Point to complete all paperwork, including delivery of
firearms. The fee may be split among as many yachts as are checking out
from that location.
Vuda Point (Marina)
Anchorage: This is a pretty nice marina, arranged interestingly in a
circle. Med-moor, either bow-to or stern-to. No matter what they say on the radio, prepare 4
lines (on each corner of the boat) of about 30 feet each. The dockhand
will take two -- either bow or stern -- and tie to mooring balls, and other hands will catch your lines
ashore. If you don't have a long gangplank, go in bow-to so you will be
able to get off the boat onto the tiny finger dock at low tide. Entry
channel is just under 8 feet at 0-tide.
Ashore: Ashore is a small but good chandlery and a tiny food store,
in addition to a competent canvas-maker. Also, Yacht Help, an agent, has
offices here. There are the usual facilities, in reasonable condition.
Next door to the marina is a resort called First Landing
that will sell you a low-cost temporary membership to use the pool and other
amenities there. The expenditure is well worth it, as the marina is
sometimes hot and airless (also a little buggy at times). The Yacht Club
has good food and cable TV news in English every evening.
Fuel & Water: It is possible to get diesel fuel at a non-floating dock
near the entrance at mid- to high-tide. The wooden dock rests on jagged
rock, so put out plenty of fenders. We chose to fuel up at the floating
dock at Port Denarau instead. Water is free and available at each
finger-dock "slip."
Bottom Line: Recommended, for short stay. Many, many yachties come here for repairs, airport pick-ups,
etc., and there is always some activity planned. Don't miss Half-Price
Pizza Night at the resort on Monday nights.
Port Denarau (Marina & Anchorage)
Anchorage: This new marina has floating docks, but not all facilities
are operational yet. There is room for only half a dozen yachts side-to
at the floating docks right now. The entry channel here is well-marked but NOT, repeat NOT
the 12-ft minimum that the office will tell you on the radio. We draw
7.5 feet (2.3 meters), and we ground out in soft mud in the center of the
channel at low tide (no problem as the tide was rising, but not a particularly
pleasant experience either). Stay on right side of the channel for the
deepest water. One can anchor in the marina basin, or off the Sheraton
Resort beach about a mile southwest of the channel entrance markers.
Ashore: Ashore at Denarau are reasonable facilities, a good bar and restaurant, and
taxis to Nadi. Nadi has excellent shopping and a really good Chinese
restaurant, Sentai. This marina is probably the closest place for crew
pick-ups or drop-offs at the airport. A short walk or taxi ride away is
the huge, luxury Sheraton Resort, with the best golf course in Fiji and other
nice amenities available for a fee.
Fuel & Water: No matter what the marina office tells you, yes
you can fuel up at the yacht dock (on the far left as you enter). The BP
station just across the street brings a cart with a long hose, and they are
professional and very careful to avoid spillage. We recommend them
highly. To get
water, though, you have to combine hoses with all the other boats to reach the
sole faucet ashore. If you really wheedle, the
marina office will let you borrow their hose.
Bottom Line: Highly recommended for fueling. Mildly
recommended for staying.
Momi Bay
Anchorage: Pretty and well-protected, except from
westerlies. Good holding in mud. Perfect jumping-off spot for
westward departure from Fiji.
Mamanuca Islands
Musket Cove, Malolo Lailai Island
Moorings: We moored at
17deg46.21'S, 177deg11.34'E. Moorings are about US$3 per night and are
serviced regularly. We rode #2 in 25-35 knots of wind for 2 full days
without problem.
Anchorage: We anchored at
17deg46.32'S, 177deg11.26'E; 55 ft, sand bottom. Anchoring is free and
must be done west of the moorings area (near the arrival channel) to provide
appropriate swinging room. There are several other pretty anchorages
just around the corner on Malolo.
Arrival: Although the channel into Musket Cove is
well-marked, it is NOT a straight shot. The route is not difficult, but
it does require good light and attention. Make your waypoint at Black
Rock (we used 17deg47.5S, 177deg13.29E) and approach from the southeastern
side of the island. The markers are as indicated on the chart (BA1670),
plus a new additional marker seaward of the narrowest part of the
channel. When you make the starboard turn to the anchorage, you are NOT
home free. If you head straight for the anchorage at that point, you
will drive right up on a reef (as several did while we were here).
Approach only in good light in the middle of the day so you can see the
overlapping entrance reefs, through which you must zig-zag for the final lap
to reach the anchorage and moorings. After you do it once, it's easy --
but take great care that first time.
Safety: Musket Cove is probably the best-protected anchorage
in the Mamanucas, safe in all wind directions except westerly, and ok even
then. Moreover, many resort launches are available to help out in
an emergency.
Ashore: This is offshore yachties' paradise for
sure. The resort staff is extraordinarily helpful and
friendly. For about US$3 per couple, one may become life members of the
Musket Cove Yacht Club and thereby use all of the resort facilities: pools,
tennis court, e-mail, showers, laundry, beach huts, etc.
There is a fuel dock for gas and diesel, though diesel is about 10 cents more
expensive per liter than on the mainland. The dive shop is excellent,
and one may rent recreational equipment such as windsurfers and kayaks.
It is possible at low tide to walk the beach all the way around the island
(about 2 hours). There are several low-key restaurants and bars and a small grocery store with
such American-style delicacies as microwave popcorn, broccoli, salad fixings, salsa,
and guacamole. On Thursday nights the resort has a pig roast and local
show. There is a very primitive 9-hole golf course. If you set up
an account at the resort office, you may sign for everything and pay when you
leave.
In the water: Good snorkeling is near the sand bar
close to the entrance, which becomes exposed only at low tide; and around the
corner at the marine park. There are about a dozen
good dive spots nearby. Although we didn't try it, this is apparently a
world-famous mecca for surfing, as well, on the outside reef. In June
and September, the Yacht Club hosts offshore races and regattas.
Bottom line: Don't miss it. Everyone comes here
for a while -- sometimes a long while! If nothing else, you will catch
up with at least a dozen friends you haven't seen in a long time. We
stayed about two weeks, and we could happily have stayed two months.
Navadra Island
Anchorage: This anchorage was my favorite in Fiji. Three
uninhabited islands form a bay with perfect beaches and clear water. Anchor in 40 feet off the beach
towards the left of the bay as you enter, on a sand bottom, easily visible
among the coral. Do not take the central
mooring ball; it belongs to the cruise lines (which come every few days for a couple of hours mid-morning).
Safety: The entrance reef is not difficult to negotiate, but we
had Alan up on the first spreader anyway. The eastern channel seems
slightly larger and clearer. A mild roll may creep in; many boats set a stern anchor.
In the water: The
diving and snorkelling are superb. Great beaches, too.
Bottom line: We had this anchorage completely to ourselves and were in
absolute heaven.
Yasawa Islands
Nalauwaki Bay, Waya Island
First anchorage: To the right of the village as you
enter (but beware of breaking reef extending from western shore), just off the
rock outcropping between the village beach and the western beach; 30 ft sand
bottom.
Second anchorage: 17deg16.36'S, 177deg07.1E; 37 ft, sand bottom; left
of village as approach, at stream head.
Safety: Both anchorages can be somewhat rolly, and many people put out a stern
anchor. Well-protected from usual tradewinds, but not from northerlies
or northwesterlies.
Ashore: Nalauwaki Village, traditional and very friendly. Must present
sevu-sevu to chief if going ashore. Beaches gorgeous, good shelling;
watch out for large pigs (!). Nice walk across peninsula saddle to Liku-Liku Bay on western side
of island, where there is a backpacker's resort with perfect beach, small beach bar; glorious
snorkeling on reef there.
Bottom line: Really nice; worth seeing.
Blue Lagoon, Nanuya-Sewa Island
Anchorage: 16deg56.60'S, 177deg22.02E; 55ft sand bottom,
about 200 yards from shore (plenty of room to anchor in closer in shallower
water. Anchorage is at the northernmost beach on the island, not the one
indicated on the chart.
Safety: Most protected anchorage in Yasawa Islands.
One of the entrance buoys is missing from the southeastern entrance. We
approached from the west because of the weather, and now believe that the
western approach is much easier and safer. There are plenty of reefs to
negotiate either way, so send someone up in the rigging to keep a lookout.
Ashore: Make sevu-sevu with the family who live on the beach
(Bill, Va, and Renni). Va will bake wonderful bread with a day's notice,
or cook a traditional dinner for a minimum of 6 people. Pretty beach,
good shelling. The gorgeous beach just south has been permanently
leased by Blue Lagoon Cruises and is unavailable to yachties unless the cruise
ship happens to be absent. From here you can hire a longboat to visit
the caves on the next island north without having to anchor there, where the
holding is reputed to be quite bad. Nice walk up into hills behind
beach.
In the water: Excellent snorkelling around the corner
past the Blue Lagoon beach (southeast from anchorage) on small reef finger
extending out from fringe. Good snorkeling everywhere in this area.
Bottom line: Really nice; worth seeing.
Vunayawa Bay, Naviti
Anchorage: 17deg05.09'S, 177deg16.62E; 17ft sand bottom,
room for 2 boats.
Safety: This is a fair-weather anchorage only.
When we were there and 35-knot winds, heavy rain, and a strong surge came up
at dawn, we dragged anchor and came within about 2 feet of piling up on the
reef before we could get the engine started and get the heck out of Dodge.
Ashore: Make sevu-sevu at Somosomo Bay next door.
Pretty little beach. Nice walk overland to eastern shore, where a WWII
plane is submerged in the lagoon. Take another sevu-sevu or other gift
to the family at the lagoon.
In the water: Excellent snorkelling.
Bottom line: Nice stop in settled weather.
Somosomo Bay, Naviti
Anchorage: 17deg05.9'S, 177deg15.85'E; 35ft sand bottom,
just south of small marked reef in middle of bay.
Safety: Well-protected in most conditions.
Ashore: Make sevu-sevu at the village if you go ashore.
Bottom line: Nice, convenient anchorage on way up or down
Yasawas.
Voyage of Heartsong III