Recent Questions

Note: Please accept my apologies for the long delay in answering some of these questions.   My work ethic isn't what it used to be.  :-) 

This page lists all questions in reverse chronological order, the most recent at the top.

Click here for a list of the questions I haven't gotten to yet.

As always, information on this page is accurate and appropriate to the best of our knowledge and experience, but do not use any information herein as your sole source of marine navigation or safety.

Q:  My partner and myself are considering blue water cruising in a 45-footer.  I have scoured cruising websites, such as yours and others, and have found that most sailors indicate they get into ports easier if they have the USCG "certificate of competence."  I noted you mentioned you both earned your USCG Captains' licenses ... Is that the same thing as the Certificate of Competence?  Thanks and great sailing to you both!

A:  I have never seen a piece of paper called a "certificate of competence," and I don't know what that is.  My husband and I both hold a license for "Operator of Uninspected Vessel" -- which is a charter captain's or "6-pack" license for a craft under 50 tons.  I'm sure it would serve as a certificate of competence, but I have never heard it referred to as such.  Sorry I can't help, except to say that in the entire circumnavigation we were never asked by authorities to document our competence in any way!

Q:  My wife & I retired in May of 03 and we have been following your adventures with lust. We live in Rockwall, Tx, & pass thru Temple when we go to our boat in Pt. Aransas. We have a Downeast 38 cutter and are readying her for off shore cruising...who knows where the winds will take us. My only question is about firearms. I'm a retired police officer and my wife is a paramedic, so we both have seen what guns can and can't do. My concern is up close/on board safety and for that I have no problem using a flare gun. Have you had any problems with them on board/declaring them, or having them confiscated? What did you use for personal defense?  Thanks Richard & Canda, S/V Seaduction

Q:  I love the videos on your site, particularly the mid-Atlantic and the Tonga to NZ. I'm curious, now that you've completed your voyage, are you glad it's over, or do you look back wistfully? I'm wistful watching the videos, and I wasn't even there!  Thanks for being so forthcoming with your personal story. I'm sure many people are inspired, as I am.

A:  Thanks for the kind words.  Yep, when we drove away from the Florida dock where Heartsong III was bobbing with a "for sale" sign on her, I cried my silly eyes out.  And even now a week later, I get teary-eyed -- especially when I revisit special moments (like mid-ocean sunsets).  But Alan and I knew this mid-life adventure break would end at some point, so I try to be philosophical about it and to appreciate the reality that I was incredibly lucky to get to fulfill my life's dream.  Best of luck to you in pursuing yours. 

Q:  Your opinion for a hard or soft dodger for a 35 foot sloop that's about to leave for the Caribbean and Mediterranean.

A:  Hard.  If you are crossing a major ocean, it is my opinion you need sturdy protection from the elements, and tucking up under a hard dodger in a serious wind- and rain-storm is very cozy.  But whichever way you go, actually the most important part is having a well-designed structure that holds the dodger firmly in place.  I do not advocate a plexiglass "windshield."  If it breaks you have huge problems.  The heavy clear vinyl zip-on has gone around the world for us without yellowing or cracking.

Q:  I will be in a position in a couple of years to take 2 to 3 years from my company and cruise. My wife and I have 2 young children and think that this would be a grand experience for all. My question is....I've been sailing since the mid 80's chartering boats and then buying a small 26' Catalina Capri. No real offshore experience. I’ve been looking into getting on a delivery service that will take people like me on a passage to gain offshore experience. Is this a good way to educate oneself and if so is there any delivery services that you know of that you could recommend? Also, any opinion on a Pacific Seacraft as a good blue water boat? Thank you for you input!!

A:  Re serving as crew on a delivery:  All offshore experience is not created equal.  Some issues to consider are these: (1) Is the delivery captain experienced and competent?  (2) Do you know him or her well enough to know whether he or she will exercise good judgment in an emergency?  (3) Is the boat to be delivered a seaworthy boat?  (4) Do you know enough to tell if it's not?  (5) How long is the trip, and are there emergency stops available en route?  Your trip could be wonderful and educational, or it could be a complete nightmare.  

All things considered, I would tend more towards gaining experience by taking short hops offshore in a seaworthy boat with which I was very familiar -- and possibly by hiring a delivery captain to sail with me as crew for a day here or there.  For example, I might go out and test myself and my equipment by daysailing in a variety of weather conditions.  Then, after careful preparation, I might do an easy overnighter down the coast or inter-island, in settled weather.  And so on, working up to a passage.  If you know enough about navigation and the rules of the road to pass the USCG "6 pack" (OUPV/charter captain) exam and if you have bareboat chartered in the Caribbean or Med, you'll do at least as well as most of us did our first time out.

If you do choose to crew on a delivery, however, do the same safety prep on the delivery boat that you would do on your own.  And at the very least, take your own PFD and pack a waterproof bag with your own VHF radio, flares, and portable GPS.

As to an opinion on Pacific Seacraft, all I know is that it is a fine, reputable company.  Good luck to you.

Q:  Congratulations. You're an inspiration to us all.

A.  Thanks mate.

Q:  We are planning a circumnavigation in a couple of years and would like your advice. We are considering a 77 foot cutter rig with a 11.5 draft.  Is that draft too great for comfortable spots to anchor?

A:  Yep.  

We anchor in 10-17 ft much of the time.  Even with minimal tides, you would have a problem.  Many marina entry channels would be too shallow for comfort as well.  A draft of 7-8 feet would allow you to anchor in the vast majority of the world's prettiest places.  But 11.5 ft . .  ..  wow.  You would be doing a whole lot of anchoring way out from shore and dinghying way in, and you would therefore often be in a less well-protected spot.  I'm quite sure it can be done, as we do see huge boats out here that must have such deep drafts, but anticipate significant inconvenience.  [There's another question on draft below.]

Q: Hi, like your site, but after having asked around amongst my (boatie) friends, and they don't know either:  What is "gunkholing"?   I see it often in American magazines, but it is not used here in Australia.

A:  I've never heard an actual definition, so I'm basically making this one up:  Gunkholing is sailing in fine weather a very short distance among multiple lovely anchorages in a relatively small geographic area.  Liberal ingestion of tasty alcoholic beverages and good food is implied.  Much enjoyment of sun, sea, and sand is similarly assumed, and boat work is strictly forbidden.  :-)

Q:  We are currently considering a 42ft trimaran for our voyage as we have a small dog and the extra deck area is an advantage for us.  Do you know of any people who are currently sailing a tri and if they have any regrets or problems making passage in rough seas.  I do appreciate the costs may be more for marinas and repairs but we will try to avoid using marinas where possible.  Once again thank you for your informative site.

A:  I hesitate to tell you this, but the only trimaran cruising boat of our acquaintance sank in the South Pacific in late 1999 in foul weather and rough seas.  The owner believed that it must have developed a stress-related leak near the rudder post.  Also, I seem to remember that one of the three pontoons began breaking up when steering became a problem.  The owner and crew were rescued, and we talked to them in New Zealand.  I did not ask them specifically whether they attributed the problem to the trimaran design generally or to the construction of that particular multi-hull or perhaps just to bad luck.   They were still pretty shell-shocked, and one didn't like to press them too much.  There are plenty of trimaran ocean racers, though, so presumably the basic design must be ocean-friendly -- wouldn't you think?  On the other hand, you might want to do a bit of additional safety research before you make a final decision.

If I can find that trimaran owner's email address, I will send him yours in case he has anything to add to my account of his tragedy.  His was one of 11 yachts that we know of that sank in the Pacific the season we crossed.  The rest, to my knowledge, were mono-hulls.

 We know many double-hulls (catamarans) that have successfully crossed oceans in rough conditions.  Just out of curiosity -- have you looked into one at all?  Their deck space is usually pretty impressive.

Q:  Circumnavigation: Why so quick to return?  Why not winter in England and spend next summer in the Baltic, then the exciting crossing? 

A:  That sounds glorious, and we know many people who are doing just that.  In our case, however, my husband is eager to get back to work.  (Personally I think he's been out in the sun too long.)  In any event, we gave ourselves this adventure break with the knowledge that it would have to end someday.  And someday is coming up way too fast for me.

Q:  Do you know where I could buy paper fishing charts for the north and south coast of the country of Panama?  Thank you.

A:  You can get paper navigation charts from Bluewater Books and Charts.  They always show depth contours, underwater rocks, and other features of interest to fishermen, but I don't know of any nautical charts just for fishing.

Q:  I forgot to ask a question in my last message. Although it doesn't appear that you have any pets aboard, what knowledge do you have of them?  Both my wife and myself are quite fond of Abyssinian cats and would consider taking them along if they weren't going to cause too many problems...  I imagine that, as with firearms, the rules and regulations differ from country to country.  Aside of that, what do you know of general practicalities associated with keeping pets aboard?

A:  We know many cruisers with pets, usually cats, so I know that it can be done.  There was an excellent article about cruising with pets in Blue Water Sailing magazine, written by Jeff on Gryphon sometime in 2001 or early 2002.  

Our friends tell us that a younger cat or kitten adapts better to boat life, and that it's crucial to document all vaccinations and to get a certificate of health from a vet before one leaves home.  Several countries have strict quarantine rules for pets.  I have been told that the UK still requires a pet arriving by yacht to go into quarantine in a government facility for a full six months.  Australia and New Zealand have quarantine rules, as well, though I don't know whether they are as strict as the UK.  You might see if you can locate that magazine article as a place to start your research.

Q:  I'm working up a design for a cruising boat and hope to be out there in two years to complete my circumnavigation and take as much time as I can.  I've already done most of the Med, an Atlantic crossing and the Caribbean, but there is a lot left.  Thanks to you, I'll also do a web site.  A question though.  What guides do you recommend for Asia?

Q:  This is Larry in Hervey Bay, Australia. My wife and I are considering buying a yacht, possibly in Florida. Can you please give me a rough idea of the red tape and approximate costs of coming through the Panama canal?   We are both 72 but that won't stop us!

A:  Good on ya, mates.  The Canal cost question is answered as best I can answer it in the question below.  As for the red tape, the Yacht Club at Cristobal (east side) or Balboa (west side) can point you in the right direction to get started.  You can either hire an agent or make a handful of office visits yourself.  We did the latter, and it was no big deal.  All it took was some patience and the better part of a day.  The officials spoke some English and helped us with the paperwork (but I would recommend your having a Spanish dictionary handy just in case).  They then gave us a phone number to call daily to check when we would be scheduled for transit.  Although we were bumped from the list a couple of times (presumably by someone who had hired an agent!), we went through the canal about 10 days after we arrived at the anchorage.  For a lot more info, see the magazine article I wrote just after we went through.

One additional note: In Cristobal on the eastern side of the Canal, crime is rampant in the city areas where you will have to go to arrange transit.  The yacht club will advise you to always take a taxi into town, as opposed to walking, and never to walk around alone, even for short distances.  We followed their advice and had no problems, but that situation -- if it hasn't improved since 1999 when we were there -- might influence your decision whether to hire an agent (which you can do by telephone from the Yacht Club).

Q:  My wife Paula and I are currently in Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays [Australia], building our 40' catamaran. We are working full time building her and are very much looking forward to cruising. It was interesting finding your site, as your circumnavigation passage in the Pacific is similar to that we wish to undertake, only in reverse. Our question, finally, is regarding your Panama Canal transit, could you please tell us how much it costs to pass through the Panama Canal, as we have been unable to find a costing schedule on the web.

Q:  I have just begun my adventures in sailing, with my first solo captain experience in the BVI on a 505.  I'm hooked!  Planning the next trip to St Maarten and am working my way to one day circumnavigating the globe, at least dreaming about it.  I have just some quick questions about your boat.  1.  Do you ever use your forward looking sonar? or could you do without it!  2.   Do you feel left out of any anchorages due to your draft and would you consider a retractable centerboard?  3.  Money aside, for two adults, two children under 7 year of age and possibly a nanny/teacher/crew member is the Hylas 54 too small and have you seen the plans for the Hylas 66?

A:  Question 1: If you buy a forward-looking sonar, spend the money to get a really good one or in my opinion there's no point.  We bought the bottom-of-the-line model..  Although we "use" it (i.e., we turn it on from time to time), it is probably the least helpful electronic item on the boat.  It seems to give a good signal and picture, but we never have any idea what it is that we're looking at.  Land or water?  School of fish or half-submerged container?  Reef or sea turbulence?  It's impossible to tell.  I have seen the expensive color models, and they are much easier to read.  Still, in my view, if budget is an issue, the money would be better spent elsewhere -- for example, for an integrated radar/chartplotter or a spare autopilot.

Question 2:  Draft is always a compromise.  With our 7.5ft (2.3m) draft, there are some anchorages we have had to skip, particularly in the Bahamas and a few in the Med.  The vast majority of the world's prettiest spots, however, are deep enough for us; and that little bit of extra draft pays off at sea.  During the design phase of the Hylas 54, we put the idea of a retractable centerboard on the table.  Hylas was not interested, however, and we ended up negotiating the centerboard away for something we wanted more.  And in hindsight I'm glad.  We know two boats with retractable centerboards, and both have malfunctioned in a big way.  Moreover, you just can't put enough weight at the bottom of the board to do any good.  The retractable would seem intuitively to give you the best of both worlds, but people who have it tell us that instead they have the best of neither world, plus an unreliable system.  (I'd love to hear from someone with a centerboard who likes it, to get the other side of the debate.)  If you plan to do tropical coastal sailing, a shoal-draft boat is ideal.  If you plan to cross oceans, however, you need a decent draft whether or not it means you may miss an anchorage or two in the tropics.  A draft of 7-8 feet will not hinder you in any major way in the vast majority -- I'm going to make up a figure and say 90% -- of places.

Question 3: For the crew you describe, whether the Hylas 54 is big enough would have to depend on your comfort and privacy requirements.  We know large families that travel in much smaller boats than ours, but for us the 54 is just right for 2 people with occasional guests from home.  The 54 does have a lot of interior volume, thanks to the wide beam brought well aft.  I haven't seen the 66 plans.  Sorry I can't help, but it's an "everybody's different" kind of question.  You might think about chartering a Hylas 54 in St. Thomas and judge for yourself.  And keep in mind that the Hylas like many other production boats has a semi-custom interior, so you can optimize your space.

Q:  How much money do you budget while out cruising? Say monthly.  I certainly understand if you wouldn't want to answer. But it seems you live a little better than most of the cruisers I've read about.   Thanks for the stories...

A:  We budget exactly the same amount per month cruising as we did when we lived on land.  Granted we spend money on totally different things, but oddly enough the overall amount turns out to be about the same.

As for our spending a little more than average, you are probably correct.  Our philosophy is that we'd rather cruise comfortably for six years than frugally for eight or ten.  But the opposite view is equally valid, and we know many people who have extended their cruising by appropriate, enviable, disciplined budget-watching.

Basically, there are as many different workable budgets as there are cruisers.  For a breakdown of basic categories of cruising expenditures for planning purposes, scroll down to a question near the end of this page.

Q:  I am a 19 years old student from Italy and I would like to have this kind of adventure like you.  I wish I could do it with my girlfriend I live with.  I would be pleased if you answer a simple question.  How much money do I need?  I mean how much does cost a sailing boat and how much money do I need for all the other stuff?  I am waiting for your reply.

A:  As I talked about in the previous question, I think you would probably spend per month about what you spend now.  So to know how much you need to save, keep track of what you spend now and multiply it by how long you want to stay out.

As for cost of the actual boat, you can pay anything from about US$10,000 for an older, small but generally seaworthy boat to over a million dollars for a big luxury cruiser like a Swan or an Oyster.  Since you're a student, I assume you would start small.  Next time you are near a marina dock on the Italian coast, stop in and look around.  Several boats will be for sale, and there will be ads posted on the bulletin board for others, and you can get a general idea of what's available.  Used equipment will be available, too, and there will be ads for swap meets.

Here's some final advice, though.  When you feel like you have enough money to go, work and save for another year or two.  We occasionally see folks on a shoestring budget who have a financial emergency that ends the trip.  If you have an emergency fund set aside before you go, you will sail with a lot less stress.

Q:  I want to spend several years cruising after retirement.  However, I will not be able to devote the time until I am 62 years old.  Is the lifestyle too demanding for someone of that age?  My wife and I stay in good shape and have no health problems.  Thanks. 

A:  No worries, mate.  Yes, the lifestyle can be physically demanding at times, but if you're in decent shape you'll be fine.  Although most voyagers of our acquaintance are between 45 and 60 years old,  there are many voyagers in their 70s and some in their 80s.  Rather than youth and strength, the qualities required of a successful circumnavigator are more in the nature of good judgment and endurance.  It's a marathon, not a sprint.

Having said that, though, the better shape you stay in, the safer and easier your voyage will be.  And of course, as with cruisers of any age, it's always good to consult a physician for all the check-ups before you leave.  The best possible thing to do is establish a personal relationship with a good family doctor who knows your circumstances and will make himself or herself available for email inquiries should you develop minor problems along the way.

Another way to prepare is to outfit your boat with electric or hydraulic gear -- winches, windlass, etc.  It's my belief that a yacht should be outfitted such that the physically weakest crew member can bring her into a safe port singlehandedly in an emergency. 

Q:  Gonna be cruising ourselves, someday.  While traveling, do you always have communication with other cruisers, or are there times when you are 'out there' all alone with the ocean? 

A:  You can choose your level of isolation, from none to total.  There are always cruisers available to "buddy boat," that is, to travel together -- sometimes within sight -- and to keep constant communication via VHF radio.  Alternatively, you can choose never to communicate with anybody at all.  

Or you can choose to participate in SSB/HF radio "nets" (an intermediate position that most cruisers, including us, usually take).  A net can be formal, in which you check in with your position and weather conditions every day at the same time.  In a formal net, failure to check in would lead to people making an effort to look for you; and ultimately, authorities would be notified if you cannot be located.  Formal nets are run most often for long ocean passages.  

In an informal  net, you can check in as often as you choose with no repercussions.  As in a formal net, you can talk to your friends and acquaintances to find out where and how they are; and you can obtain info like where the nearest diesel mechanic is, etc.  For example, the informal Med Net that we listen to now (but rarely actually "check into") on 8122 at 0730 Croatia local time gives excellent weather for the various regions and then allows check-ins and eventually opens the frequency up to boat-to-boat traffic.  On an informal net, failure to check in will not lead directly to anyone looking for you.  However, an informal net is an excellent way for a friend who has not heard from you in a while to check up on you.  If there is concern over your whereabouts, a cruiser can issue a "health and welfare" request that asks other cruisers actively to try to find you.  And it is amazing what a small world it really is.

You can always find out about nets just by asking other cruisers in an anchorage.  Somebody will know, or will know how to find out.

For me, however, one of the best parts of voyaging is the adventure of being alone with the ocean.  So we almost never join a formal net, though we take care to know about them in case of an emergency.  And we often listen in to the informal nets because it's fun.

Q:  My wife and I are in the process of purchasing a Hylas 54 that is equipped similarly to Heartsong III, and are planning to do some cruising with our 4 year-old son.  I have read your review of the Hylas 54, and much of the information on your very helpful site.  Great stuff!   We are wondering how you find the Hylas 54 for shorthanded cruising, and are there any major considerations that we should make before completing a decision on this boat?

Also, would you recommend Concord Electronics, Summerfields boatyard and the canvas shop that you used (can't remember the name offhand)?

Q:  Hi.  My wonderful wife and I spent our honeymoon in Bequia and were completely fascinated by the sailing boats and catamarans that anchored in Admiralty Bay.  The people were great and we fell in love with the idea of sailing around the Caribbean and anchoring in any of the islands for a few nights and moving on.  We are not ready to do what you are doing but would like to start that way for summer vacations.  Could you please give us your opinion regarding what would be an appropriate boat to do that (size, brand, etc.) and where should we look to research more.  Thanks and be safe.

Q:  We have thought of carrying firearms onboard our sailboat for self-defensive purpose. Do you have problems when checking in? What do you think is an ideal rifle and handgun for cruisers?  I have always considered having a firearm is like having an insurance policy. Keep trucking and have fun!

A:  Checking in to a country when you have firearms on board involves significantly more trouble and expense than if you carry no firearms.  First, most countries will want to "store" them and your ammunition for "safekeeping" while you are in the country.  When you get the firearms back, you may notice that a fair amount of your ammunition is gone, and that the guns have been fired.  That particular issue can be prevented by installing a trigger-lock and refusing to surrender the key.  There is no protection, however, against the firearms and/or ammunition becoming mysteriously "lost" while in official custody.  Such losses have happened to two cruisers with whom we are personally acquainted.

Second, on departure you must clear out of the exact same port at which you originally cleared in to retrieve the guns; or in larger countries, you can pay a small fortune to have them shipped to your exit port (after giving several weeks notice, which still does not guarantee timely delivery).  These things have to be factored into route planning and budget.

Third, some countries -- notably Singapore -- levy a non-refundable customs fee for mandatory gun storage that is roughly equal to the value of the gun itself.

Fourth, if you declare a handgun, it will always be confiscated for the duration of your stay; and it is even less likely to be returned unfired, if it is returned at all.  Moreover, they are small enough to be concealed on a person's body, which makes them generally more likely to go missing from your boat.  As a lawyer, I will just mention that if a crime is committed with your handgun in a foreign country, you could certainly clear the situation up -- if you have declared it and are meticulous about your paperwork -- but you might suffer some stress and loss of time and money in the process.

Fifth, if you carry guns and decide not to declare them, you are risking a heavy fine, jail time, and/or confiscation of your boat.  In Malaysia, gun-running is punishable by the death penalty.  In Tobago, our anchorage was searched and one poor French cruiser was carted off and gone for three days until he could raise the US$2,000 fine that was levied for failure to declare his rifle.

Sixth, unless you buy a "marinized" gun, it will rust unless you take very good care of it.

Seventh, the situations in which you would want firearm protection are virtually nil.  Almost every encounter you will have with local boats and citizenry will be at worst harmless and at best unmissably rewarding.  

Having said all that, though, we carried a rifle and a marinized shotgun all the way from Florida to Egypt, checking them in properly at each country and keeping good records.  It was a major hassle, but when we were approached by pirates on the high seas near Java and in the Gulf of Aden, we were happy we had them (even though we did not have to fire).  It is still the case that for the vast majority of the time in the vast majority of the world, cruisers can depend on nobody for protection but themselves and any other cruisers who happen to be nearby.  Although the chance of attack is tiny, the chance of rescue is even smaller. 

A good addition or alternative to guns is pepper spray or Mace.  Buy many canisters in the USA (assuming it's still legal there), because it is illegal and unavailable almost everywhere else we have been.  However, there has been no requirement in any of the countries we have visited to declare or surrender it.  It is an excellent method of self-defense on a boat at anchor.  But always fire aft -- downwind.  :-)

If you decide to carry guns, I humbly submit some food for thought:

1. Think long and hard before you put a handgun on board.  They are too easily stolen off the boat or by an official and can land you in serious jail-time type of trouble if found undeclared.  Most countries treat handguns far more stringently than rifles or shotguns.  Moreover, handguns are virtually useless in pirate situations against a half dozen guys with Kalishnakovs.  The downside outweighs the upside by a landslide.
2. Instead, consider buying a "marinized" shotgun and/or rifle.  We carried a Mossberg Mariner 590 shotgun and a Remington 30-06 (non-marinized) rifle.  We were happy with both.  With either or both, you could probably keep pirates far enough away that their Kalishnakovs (typical armament), which are notoriously inaccurate, could not be fired to any significant effect.  (Still -- practice taking cover!!)
3. Consider postponing your gun purchase until the first-world country just before a danger area.  For example, if you are circumnavigating from the USA west coast, wait until New Zealand to buy.  Then you'll have your guns for the high-danger areas of Southeast Asia and/or the Gulf of Aden but won't have to hassle with them while island-hopping across the Pacific.  You will need to investigate in advance which countries allow firearm purchases, but this exercise will take a lot less time than carting your guns back and forth every time you make landfall throughout the safer areas.
4. KEEP EXCELLENT RECORDS.  Make many copies of a Firearms List, which details your guns, type, serial numbers, ammunition type and amount.  Make spaces for your boat stamp, your signature, the date, port, time of gun surrender or sealing on board, the customs official's signature, any fee that will change hands, and anything else official-looking you can think of.  Make the customs guy sign off on 2 copies and keep one for yourself.  Read and fill out their own paperwork carefully, and make sure you have a first-class paper trail.  For example, in the fine print of some customs entry forms, flare guns are listed as a declarable firearm.  The bottom line is that you need to be able to document (a) your compliance with local law, and (b) your lack of access to your gun in the event that a shooting crime is committed nearby.
5. Install a lock on the gun's trigger or on a hard outer case, or on both, and keep the key(s) even if the gun itself must be surrendered to authorities.  Alternatively, remove the entire magazine and keep it hidden on the boat.
6. Investigate ammunition possibilities.  For a rifle, you will want to carry some bullets that will penetrate a hull at maximum distance.  For the shotgun, you can buy "mortar" shells that explode in mid-air with a loud bang and flash.  These shells, developed for farmers to scare birds, are excellent for doing what you probably will want to do -- scare pirates away before they get close enough to board.
7. Practice firing.  Take your guns to a range and fire them many times until you are comfortable with them
8. RUN DRILLS on your boat while underway.  Practice evading and firing warning shots under all points of sail, and in daytime and nighttime.  Take enough ammunition that you can run some drills with live fire.  But be careful not  to do what a friend of ours did.  While drilling, he fired aft from the cockpit and severed his backstay!  By the way, don't bother to drill in really bad weather.  Pirates typically don't come out in a blow.
9. Think it through.  Talk possible scenarios through with your crew and with other cruisers.  Practice and plan for all that you can think of.  Decide whether you think you could kill somebody.  Decide beforehand whether you will fire to protect property, or only if your personal safety is at risk.  For pirate situations, decide whether you will fire only to prevent them from boarding, or whether you will continue to fire once they are on your vessel and/or whether you will continue to fire if they appear to be leaving.  Debate the line between self-defense and vigilante-ism, and decide where it lies for you.  Think through what actions might indicate whether men in a local boat are honest fishermen (99.999% of the boats you will see) or marauders.
10. Talk to a lawyer, or look up the laws in your home country and state regarding what force is allowable for self-defense and for protection of property, and what actions on the part of an intruder would indicate their intent.  Regardless of what law (if any) would ultimately apply to any actions on your part, you will at least have some guidelines to begin your own personal debate on these issues.

And that's all I can think of on that subject, other than to say I'm grateful we have never had to fire our guns except in practice.

Q:  In all of your travels to different places, ports etc, and meeting so many people sailing the world, have you met any gay sailing couples?  How well are they received in the cruising community?

A:  I don't think sexual orientation is an issue with most voyagers.  At least, I can't imagine it would be in a lifestyle in which cultural diversity is a core feature.  We have met several same-sex cruising partners over the years, but I can't say that I know whether they are gay/Lesbian or not.  Not much of an answer -- sorry -- but it's the best I have.

Q:  Hi, First let me tell you that I appreciate the time you take to share your experience. My wife and I have no experience in offshore cruising of the type you relate but, are planning to cruise for at least two years and maybe longer after we retire. Right now we're looking at tons of boats, specifications, reading reviews, etc to decide which will be right for us. I realize that even after we buy a new boat additional equipment will have to be added to make it safe and comfortable for offshore/live-aboard cruising. That's what I wanted to ask you. What equipment would you say was mandatory to outfit a boat with? What isn't mandatory but you wouldn't wish to be without. Oh yeah, I guess I should tell you that we're looking at boats in the 42' to 48' range. Thanks for your time , have a safe and happy sail.

Q: How much money did you save prior to beginning your voyage?

A:  We saved enough to (1) live at the same expenditure level we had on land, for the 5 years we planned for the circumnavigation; plus (2) an extra year's expenses just in case; plus (3) the down payment for our boat; plus (4) the coast of initially outfitting it with electronics, safety gear, dinghy, outboard, etc.  As I detail in questions below, it seems like we spend about what we did on land -- just for different categories of things. 

Of course, all of these numbers I treated as future cash streams, which I "discounted" to present value to get the amount we needed in hand before departure.  That is, I took into account that the money would remain invested, earning money on itself, until needed.  For a discount (interest) rate, I picked 7%, which seemed ludicrously low in 1997, but which has not been far off the mark given the overall market since then.  There are some more comments on budgeting and saving in some questions near the end of this section.

Q:  When you visit the countries you list, do you stay at Yacht Clubs or drop anchor? How often do you take on fuel for the engine? Thx.

A:  We sometimes dock at marinas or yacht clubs, and we sometimes anchor, depending on the circumstances.  For example, on the east coast of Australia, many anchorages are not particularly well-protected, and the marinas are inexpensive and very nice.  So we often stayed at marinas.  In much of the Caribbean and South Pacific, on the other hand, the anchorages are too perfect to spend any more time than necessary at the dock.  So we're pretty flexible about where we stay.

As to fuel, our Yanmar 100-hp turbo uses about 1.6 gallons of diesel per hour at 2600 RPM, which gives us a boat speed of about 7 to 7.5 knots.  AT 2000 RPM, we burn only 1 gal/hr but average only 5 or 5.5 knots.  The Onan 8kw generator, which we run for perhaps 3 or 4 hours per day when at anchor or underway, and not at all when at the dock, uses just under 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour.  How often we need fuel depends on (1) how much traveling we do; (2) whether we have enough wind to avoid using the engine; and (3) whether we stay at anchor or in a marina, where we don't need to use the genset for electricity.  Very generally speaking -- with our normal fuel capacity (not supplemented for ultra-long passages) of about 300 gallons, we calculate that we can go about 90 days or so with normal non-docking cruising before we have to fill up.  

Q: My wife, our two youngest children and myself are likewise trying a circumnavigation doing humanitarian and missionary work along the way, although we are primarily just having fun and wanting to see the world. We left just over a week ago from Ft. Lauderdale as well.  We would love to have a web site. How did you do it and keep it up while underway?

A:  I use Microsoft Front Page software to create it, and once you do the tutorial and actually read the manual, it is easy to do.  The software does all the work for you and is very flexible.  

Somewhat more challenging is uploading the updates.  To do so, you must use a computer that has Front Page on it.  So your choices are (1) to take the software and install it on the Internet Cafe computer you are using (which, believe me, they frown on in a very serious way if they catch you at it); then have your updates ready on a diskette or CD to upload; or (2) take your own laptop to the Internet Cafe and plug into their system.  For (2), I recommend you make sure you have a network card and a network cable.  In areas without Internet Cafes, we have been known to wheedle our way to a phone line (for example, in a restaurant, shop, or home) and to rent some time on the lender's dial-up ISP account.  In Tahiti, some of the public payphones have phone jacks for laptops -- an innovation I wish the rest of the world would adopt.  Of course, even then one has to buy pre-paid time for a local Internet Service Provider or else make that international call to the ISP at home.

Q:  Hi, I was wandering what are some things that preserves are doing to help the great white sharks, and captive breeding programs.  Thanks.

A: This question is way outside my knowledge base.  Here's what little I do know:  Great whites (called "white pointers" in Australia and New Zealand) are on the endangered species list in many countries, including Australia, and thus cannot be hunted or destroyed without government permission.

But I do have an opinion (surprise) -- and here's where I lose my environment-friendly status.  What is the actual point of encouraging them to exist in the same environment where humans routinely work, play and travel?  Anything that is actually above me on the food chain, I feel no need whatsoever to protect in the wild.

Q:  Just a comment from a wanna-be / soon-to-be liveaboard cruiser: Please keep up the website! I need it!

A:  No problem.  Cruisers have to re-invent the wheel all too often, but I'm hoping some of this stuff will save somebody some time and stress occasionally.

Q:  Hi - We're taking off cruising in Jan. and I am in the process of doing our website. The part I haven't done yet is the maps. I like your maps on the Passages and Ports page, especially the Map World Route. Where did you get your maps and how did you draw lines on them indicating your route. Any help or suggestions you can give me would be appreciated!

A:  I shamelessly copy the maps from the Internet, particularly the Perry-Castaneda Library Collection from the University of Texas.  If you search Yahoo or Google for "map" and the area you want, many excellent sites pop up.  I download the map as a *.jpg file, so it will be compressed and not take up quite so much room.  Then I pull it up in my photo-editing software (I have the basic Adobe Photo-Deluxe 2) and use the tools therein (a) to draw the lines showing our route; and (b) to decrease the file size further before I upload it to the website.  Fair winds.

Q:  We are having a cat built in Brisbane and will be following in your sea steps from July 2003. We will continue to follow your progress. Thank you again for this information. Just what a cruiser wants to know.

A:  Thanks!  Best of luck to you.  One quick thought, though, that you're not going to want to hear:  Most cruisers recommend that you always start a boat-building project by assuming the boat will take several months longer to finish and outfit than you originally estimated.  That way, you won't be quite so upset when the original departure date passes with so much still left to do!  On the other hand, also keep in mind that a boat, like great art and literature, is never truly "finished" but work merely abandoned for a time.  We're still trying to "finish" ours -- five years into the voyage!  Hope to meet you out here.

Q:  Hi members of Heartsong III, Great webpage you have and a great journey ! Are you coming around Borneo ? If you are, I would like to meet you guys. God vind ! (Safe wind & voyage, in Danish).

A:  Unfortunately, Borneo isn't on the route this time.  Maybe next time around!  Thanks very much for the kind thoughts.

 Q:  I know this may be a private issue and please do not feel you have to respond.  Do you carry weapons with you and if so what kind and have you had any problems clearing in?  

A:  Yes, we carry firearms.  And personally I'd like to toss them in the drink.  There are a bunch of related questions and answers above and below that answer the rest of your question.  Someday, I'll organize these Q&As into topics, but until then -- sorry -- just scroll down.  Or you can search the site (button at top) for "firearm."

Q:  We are looking for an internet service to use in the internet cafes.  I would like to know who your service is and what you have to do to get access.  We are planning on leaving right after hurricane season this year.  Just a short while to go.

Q:  I want to sail around the world but alas I have 2 children, 15 and 10. In your opinion do you think it's possible to bring them (homeschool, parenting and that sort of stuff) on a trip about the world?

A:  Absolutely.  We know many voyagers who are traveling with children.  There are apparently several accredited homeschool curricula that one can obtain and use just like correspondence courses.  The children that we meet out here seem to be unusually self-motivated and self-reliant.

Q:  How on earth are you doing this? (None of our business of course, but we are ready to sell up and sail out...)

A:  Almost any member of the American or European middle class can go sailing if he or she really wants to go.  All it takes is a willingness to pinch pennies, quit one's job, alienate family and friends, and destroy one's career path.  :-)  As discussed in more detail in one of the questions on budgeting below, we saved by cutting our lifestyle in half for several years before we left -- and that by definition allowed us to sail at the same comfort level we had on land for the same number of years, even assuming no return on the invested savings.

Q:  Why is this personal stuff splashed all over the internet...shouldn't this be at home in your private things?

A:  Good question.  Will give it some thought.

OK, I've given it some thought.  As long as I keep getting positive feedback from other voyagers and those planning a voyage, and therefore feel like I'm making a semi-useful contribution to the cruising community, I'll continue to splash away.

Q:  We are considering building a steel single-engine trawler for extensive bluewater travel.  My son gives high marks for a motorsail boat.  I have never done any sailing before, power only, and while the economics favor the motorsail, I would be interested to know your thoughts.

A:  The economics do favor having sails.  The mind boggles at the cost of feeding diesel into an engine for thousands of miles unnecessarily when the wind is free.  But the main consideration in my mind is safety if you are truly talking about bluewater sailing and not just coastal cruising.  What if your engine fails 500 miles from land in the path of an approaching storm?  What if you get a tankload of bad fuel?  The sailing capability would ensure that you can get to a port safely.

On the other hand, I'm a sailor -- and I've never owned a trawler.  So take my comments with a grain of salt and build the boat that fulfills your own dreams.  Fair winds . . ..  er, calm seas.

Q:  Could you please comment on the dark hull color in the tropics.  Did you have Heartsong insulated?  Appreciated the comforting comments about the Selden in-mast furling system.

A:  The dark hull has not been any problem at all in the tropics.  No, we didn't have any special insulation put in (apart from a huge amount in the refrigeration boxes), but we do have air-conditioning that we fire up from time to time in the heat of the day, or at night if it's too hot to sleep well.  Still, I have no impression of our boat being any hotter day or night than the white-hulled boats of our friends.  It hasn't been an issue.

I will recommend, regardless of hull color, that for tropical anchorages you get a "day awning" -- a small non-battened awning made of parachute-type material that scrunches down into a  really small sack.  This awning does not necessarily replace a proper full awning for long stays at anchor, but rather is designed for short stops.  Canvasmakers will try to talk you into having battens even in this small awning, but do not listen.  You may have to yell to get your way.  Use the boom, backstays, and shrouds to design tension points to keep the awning reasonably taut, flat, and high enough to walk under.  Ideally, the size should be very small -- just large enough to cover the cockpit and main saloon areas.  What you are after is something one person can put up in less than 5 minutes and take down instantly.  It will make a big difference to the temperature in the cockpit and below.  And because it is small and easy to put up and take down, you will actually use it, even for a lunch stop.  Ours works so well that we only rarely bother with the big tent.

Q:  How do you do.  I send this mail from Japan.  I need your video of Dugong for protecting them in Japan.  Please agree.  My English is not so good perhaps.  I am not good at studying.  But I feel to save Japanese dugongs.  Please allow to use your video.  Now, I can collect only 54 signature to protect them, and there are only less than 30 dugongs in Okinawa Island.

A:  Yes you may use the video, no problem.  Anyone may feel free to use anything on this website for any not-for-profit purpose.  As for your English, it is excellent -- and certainly a heck of a lot better than my Japanese -- so I'm guessing you are indeed very good at studying.  Best of luck with the dugongs.

Q:  My questions revolve around single-handed or short-handed passages.  Assuming I have all the standard modern safety features, I wonder about sleep.  It seems that in all the research I have done, most people set the radar for a 20-30 mile warning radius and wake up every 15-30 minutes to have a look around.  That sounds like a lot of sleep deprivation.  What do you recommend for sleeping while underway to keep reasonably safe?

A:  If you have 2 people, you have no problem.  I explained our watch schedule -- along with some comments on sleep requirements -- on our FAQ page (Q#4), if you want to have a look.  Most double-handed voyagers keep a "4 on, 4 off" schedule that allows them sleeping periods of at least 3 solid hours.  After trying this for a while, we went to "7 on, 7 off" at night so we could each get the equivalent of a normal night's sleep, and it works great.  We never sleep on watch.  One of us is always awake and scanning the horizon every 10-12 minutes (the amount of time it takes for a cargo ship steaming at normal speed of 20+ knots to reach you from the horizon if on a head-on collision course).  Because of the longer watches at night, we get enough uninterrupted sleep for reasonable physical and mental health.  After all this time, our body clocks just automatically go into passage mode when we head to sea.

The problem, of course, is -- how do singlehanders do it?  And frankly, I don't know.  They always sound a little cranky on the radio on long passages, and I cut them all the slack in the world.  Most seem to sleep in the cockpit with the radar alarm on, as you described.  Except for the Pacific and Atlantic crossings, you can keep most passages down to about 7 or 8 days -- not long enough for sleep-deprived psychosis to set in! -- and then I guess a singlehander must spend a few days in port catching up on rest.

An excellent device for double-handed watch-keeping is the "Watch Commander" (affectionately known as "Blinky"), invented by the voyagers on Sea Witch and available at SailSafely.com.   It is a small black box that runs on 12-volt power.  You set the timer for the time you want (3 minutes up to 24 minutes).  Every time you scan the horizon, you press the button and it automatically re-sets (unlike a kitchen timer or alarm clock).  If you do not press the button in the allotted time, a gentle beeping starts, and lasts for about 40 seconds.  If you do not press the button during that time, an all-hell-breaking-loose siren goes off.  So -- if you nod off on watch, you will be certain of being awakened in a timely fashion.  If you keep it near you, the gentle beeping is enough to wake you up, but it's not so loud that it disturbs the off-watch partner.  And if -- the cruiser's nightmare -- you should fall overboard, the siren will go off and wake the off-watch crew in good time to have a decent shot at finding you.

The bottom line on sleep, though, is that you don't get as much as you really need during a passage, and that's just the way it is.  The trick is to maximize your nightly sleep time (by, for example, making sure your partner is competent to perform all watch functions, sail changes, traffic avoidance, etc., on his or her own) and try to take catnaps during the day when you are off watch, whether or not you feel tired at the time.

Q:  What is the risk of actually hitting a sleeping whale, container, or other hazard while asleep?  And just out of curiosity, how often do cruisers see submarines, and do they pose a risk.  Do cruisers often encounter warships?  What is the protocol when one does encounter such a ship, regardless of what flag you fly or the warship flies?