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**IMPORTANT NOTE: The information below is NOT intended to
be complete, but rather is selective, opinionated, and reflects our own
particular experience at the time.**
Southeast Asia
The information on this page is current as of December 2002.
In Southeast Asia, we visited four countries:
Either click on the country, or scroll down for all. A list of marine
vendors we like in Southeast Asia is at the bottom of
the page.
Note on mobile phones: It
is possible to have handy cell-phone communication throughout Singapore,
Malaysia, and Thailand. With a normal pre-pay mobile phone (we used the
one we bought in Australia), one simply buys a new pre-pay SIM-card at one of
the thousands of mobile phone kiosks. (Have them install it at the kiosk
to make sure that particular brand of SIM-card works in your particular brand
of phone.) Repeat for each different country. Easy as pie.
Indonesia
Our personal impression of Indonesia is that it is a country
in profound disarray politically and economically. Although we enjoyed
for the most part the small amount of time we spent here, we did not venture
into remote areas, and we always stayed at a marina. If we had been able
to catch up with our friends and travel in company, we may have felt
comfortable to do more exploration and therefore have had a better overall
experience. Reports are that theft is high; piracy is still an issue;
anti-Americanism is palpable.
Entry to Indonesia
CAIT: Indonesia requires each yacht to
have an advance cruising permit before entry -- a "CAIT." Apply
six weeks in advance. The cruising guides list various agents, but
if you plan to go to Bali, the most time-effective thing to do is to use Bali
International Marina as agent to obtain the CAIT. The reason is
that checking into Bali, whether or not it is your first Indonesian port of
call, is a nightmare that often lasts for days and can be expensive.
If you use BIM as your CAIT agent, however, they will check you into Bali on
arrival quickly and easily -- and for free.
At all anchorages, police or other officials sometimes in
uniform and sometimes not in uniform will probably ask to see your CAIT,
even if the island has no official port of entry (or any port at all).
Navigation
Forget pirates and uncharted reefs. By far the
biggest hazard to navigation in Indonesia is the fishing fleet. On
passage in those waters, the radar usually looks like a complicated video
game. Day and night, there are almost always multiple fishing boats
within visual range -- from tiny one-man outriggers to 25- to 40-foot wooden
curve-prowed vessels to large modern commercial fishing factory ships.
Many of the smaller vessels are totally unlit at night. As they get
within a few hundred meters, someone aboard will often light a cigarette
lighter to announce their presence. I'm not kidding -- that's all the
light you get. On several occasions on an overcast night my radar
would pick up a tiny blip that MARPA would indicate was on a near-collision
course -- and scan and squint as I would with binoculars and the nigh-vision
monocular, I could not actually see the vessel until it was perhaps 30
meters abeam. On one occasion I was sure we were going to collide with
a blip that I never got a visual on. All of the cruising boats
with which we spoke shared these same experiences, and one actually collided
with a fishing vessel in the Java Sea (nobody was hurt). If you plan
to sail in Indonesia, therefore, consider the importance of planning (a) to
make day-hops instead of overnighters; (b) to have a really good radar,
preferably with MARPA; and (c) never ever to leave the cockpit while on
watch.
For my account of what may have been a piracy attempt
against us in the Java Sea, click here.
Bali
Bali is interesting and beautiful and not to be missed
under any circumstances. The people here are predominantly Buddhist,
and the temples and culture are as fascinating as the beaches and mountains
are magnificent.
Entry
Major bureaucratic nightmare. See "Indonesia
Entry," above.
Marinas
| Name |
Location |
Contact |
Notes |
| Bali
Marina |
Benoa Harbour, Bali |
Dick. VHF 77 on approach. |
Could definitely use some upkeep, but people
are friendly
and helpful, and it's the only game in town. No laundry machines,
but laundry service. Internet, showers, restaurant, bar, fuel. |
Shopping and Entertainment
Marine equipment, supplies, maintenance:
Almost none. Ask Dick at the marina if you need something, and he'll
know about it if it exists.
Provisioning: Taxi to supermarket for basic
provisioning.
Island Tour: Although most of the time I'd
rather explore on my own, I highly recommended a guided island tour of
Bali. It is just about as cheap to hire a car and guide as it is to
rent a car; and local drivers are used to the somewhat unusual driving
practices. You can plan your own itinerary, or just tell the guide
what sorts of things you want to do and leave it up to him (I saw no female
guides). The island
is small enough that you can see much of it in a day, and all of it in two
or three daytrips. Don't miss a dance performance. When hiring a
guide, you might just want to check that the car/van is air-conditioned and
in good shape, and that the guide actually speaks English (talk to him for a
bit to confirm). There are many good guides around, and we can
recommend ours highly: Made (pronounced MAH-day) Kaler, 081-6473-1440, kaleria2000@yahoo.com).
Batam
We liked Batam a lot, not least because the marina there
was so nice. The easiest approach is via Riau Strait, which is wide
and well-marked. Note that pirate attacks
against commercial shipping were reported recently on the east side of
Bintan Island (right next to Batam). Because of those reports, we did
not anchor anywhere in that area but rather traversed the Riau Strait in
expeditious fashion and turned directly into the marina.
We left our boat at the marina here and took the 40-minute
ferry to Singapore for shopping and sightseeing.
Marinas
| Name |
Location |
Contact |
Notes |
| Nongsa Point Marina |
NE point of Batam, Riau Islands (approx
01deg 11.8'N; 104deg 05.8;E0 |
Francis;
+62-778-761-333; VHF 72 on approach (very important for entry
instructions) |
Nice, well-run marina. Highly recommended.
We left boat here safely for week of Singapore/Malaysia travel (40-minute
ferry ride away). On 2002 charts. Pool, Internet, bar, golf & spa, laundry svc (but no
machines). |
Marine Services
Not much. Ask Francis at the marina, and he'll know
about it if it exists. Although the marina has a fuel dock, it was out
of service; but you can have fuel delivered to the dock by barrel. We
did that, and the fuel was fine (but we used the Baja filter just in case).
Shopping and Entertainment
Marine equipment and supplies: Nope.
Provisioning: Once a week (Wednesday or
Thursday) the Nongsa Point Marina has cheap transport to the nearest
shopping, about 30 minutes away. One can buy basic & fresh
provisions, clothing, shoes, pharmacy items, and cheap DVDs.
Events: Saturday night is buffet night at the
marina, with live entertainment. Excellent value and a lot of fun.
A day-spa and golf course are within walking distance.
Security: There is a security guard about
every 100 feet on the marina/resort/housing estate property. I've
never felt so safe anywhere in my whole life!
Singapore
General Information
Singapore is an island city-state that is clean, efficient,
and very very first-world. We did not take the boat here for a variety
of reasons, mainly because we felt like staying on land for a bit, and also
because it was so easy and inexpensive to leave the boat in Nongsa Point and
take the ferry across the Strait. For the additional cost of a
Singapore marina over Nongsa Point, a nice hotel almost paid for itself.
Moreover, Singapore has extreme restrictions on firearms, for which one must
pay a storage fee usually about equal to the value of the gun itself!
All things considered, we visited Singapore as non-yachtie tourists.
The main things to do in Singapore are shop, eat, go to the
night zoo, and enjoy first-world life for a little while. SIngapore is
the busiest container-ship port in the world, and they have a concomitant
marine industry. You will find absolutely everything you need or could
possibly ever want in Singapore. We loved it.
Note on telephone numbers: Singapore recently
went to 8-digit phone numbers (in addition to the country code of 65).
If the number you are trying to reach has only 7 digits, add a 6 to the
beginning (after the country code).
Navigation & Entry
The Singapore Strait is a highway for cargo ships, which
pass on a busy day exactly 12 seconds apart. A good idea is to read up
on traffic separation zones before attempting to cross. Having said
that, we picked a narrow spot, bided our time, and crossed with no trouble at
all. Here is some good advice that we will pass on: If you have
checked into Singapore, be absolutely certain to fly a courtesy flag. If
you are entering Singapore harbour to check in, fly the flag with a quarantine
flag above it. If you have not checked into Singapore, and do not intend
to check into Singapore, stay outside the borders of the official port zone
(clearly marked on the charts). Inside the harbor zone, the harbour
authority patrol boats are quite zealous in their duties.
Note on firearms: If you carry firearms and declare
them upon entry, officials will impound them for the duration of your
stay. To retrieve them, a hefty storage fee must be paid. We know
one cruising couple who just abandoned their shotgun here because it was going
to cost them substantially more than the gun cost to get it out of storage.
However, if you fail to declare the firearms upon entry, and they are
discovered on your boat, criminal penalties apply. So basically, you
have two bad options from which to choose.
Marina & Anchorage
I know nothing at all about the anchorage(s). There
are two main marinas: Singapore Yacht Club and Raffles Marina.
Although we didn't take the boat into Singapore, I will pass on reports from
our friends.
SYC: Upside: Well-run friendly marina;
good amenities; excellent access by MRT to shopping and Chinatown; less
expensive. Downside: Subject to swell, older facility.
Raffles: Upside: Well-run marina, new,
well-protected, good haul-out facilities; excellent amenities.
Downside: Way far away from everything, no MRT, more expensive.
Shopping & Entertainment
Charts: Motion
Smith (78 Shenton Way; +65-62205098, motsmith@singnet.com.sg)
is one of the biggest nicest chart agents in the world. BA charts here
are about the same cost as DMA/NIMA charts in the US. They have every BA
chart (literally) worldwide, and either have or will obtain any crossing guide
and pilot book. It was actually cheaper to have them send me charts in
Malaysia than it was to buy them where I was! Highly recommended.
Electronics (non-marine): Sim Lim Tower and Sim Lim Square,
within walking distance of each other, have many many many electronics shops
for comparison pricing. The hardest part isn't finding the latest items
at excellent prices, but at being overwhelmed with the choices. If you
spend more than S$300 with any one vendor, be sure to have the vendor fill out
a "GST voucher." If you fly out of Singapore, you can use it
at the airport to reclaim the 4% GST tax you have paid.
Computers: Computers and computer accessories
(including Palm Pilots, software, etc.) are a separate category from
electronics in Singapore and have their own main shopping area: Funan
Plaza. The Challenger store on the top floor is a good place to
start. If you spend more than S$300 with any one vendor, be sure to have
the vendor fill out a "GST voucher." If you fly out of
Singapore, you can use it at the airport to reclaim the 4% GST tax you have
paid.
Books, etc.: Orchard Road has a Borders and a
Kunakintaya (even bigger than Borders). Stock up, as finding English
books in Malaysia and Thailand is a challenge. A gigantic CD and DVD
store called HMV has its main outlet in Orchard Road and has excellent deals
on the clearance racks.
Transport: Taxis are cheap and
omnipresent. The MRT train/subway system is new, nice, and
convenient. Transportation is no problem in Singapore. Note that
there are hefty fines for eating or drinking on the MRT. As I got on a
train the first morning and popped open a Diet Coke, the entire car gave an
alarmed breath-intake and pointed to the rules sign. Singaporeans
clearly like clean trains. (And they like clean movie theaters.
After a movie, I left Coke and popcorn empties at my seat -- as per custom
in the US. They were actually picked up by another patron and neatly deposited,
along with everyone else's rubbish, in the large bins at the exit. I
didn't see a single wrapper or grain of popcorn on the floor.)
Provisioning: In the basement of almost every
shopping center on Orchard Road is a nice grocery store. The Boon Lake
station of the MRT is in a shopping mall that has a Liberty supermarket, which
carries American and Australian brands and items unavailable elsewhere.
General Shopping: Suntec Shopping Center (take MRT to
Town Hall station, then walk through the "Link Mall") is an
excellent mall, and off the main tourist track. In the primary tourist
area -- Orchard Road -- are endless malls and department stores. You can
spend a full day just wandering around Orchard Road, having a coffee at
Starbucks, shopping, etc. In Chinatown are wonderful food & spice
stalls, clothing shops, and reflexology booths.
Restaurants: If you want to get medium-ly
dressed up (long pants, collared shirt, no sandals for guys) and spend
some special-occasion money, don't miss Raffles Hotel -- a classic British
colonialism-type place -- for a Singapore Sling at the bar, followed by the
nightly Indian Buffet (excellent). Along the waterfront near the Raffles
Place/Town Hall area are romantic little open-air restaurants, bars, and water
taxi-tours. You can't get a bad meal in Singapore, except of course at
the American-style fast-food joints. The food halls are excellent.
Airport: If you fly in or out from Singapore,
note three things. First, plan extra time at the airport, as it is the nicest
airport you'll ever want to see, with good shopping (at same prices as town),
a gym, massage, showers, etc. Second, you can get your 4% GST tax back
on any purchases you have made in Singapore, as long as (1) they total at
least S$300 per vendor, and (2) you have had the foresight to have the vendor
fill out a "GST voucher" when you made your purchase. (If you
buy the usual amount of yachtie electronics here, the ability to reclaim the
tax will probably pay for a quick trip sightseeing to Vietnam or
somewhere!) Finally, note that the airport has an MRT station in the
basement, so you can take an easy train to or from town.
Malaysia
Malaysia is a country of contrasts -- from its multiple
religions (Muslim, Buddhist, Hindu, Christian) and ethnicities (Malay,
Chinese, Indian, European) to its socio-economy (thatched huts with no
plumbing on the outskirts of the glittering high-tech first-world prosperity
of Kuala Lumpur). After significant land-travel here, we admire this
country and its citizens very much for their successful balancing act among
cultures -- in many ways similar to the American "melting
pot." Malaysia is definitely on the economic rise and is a
fascinating place to visit.
Entry
There is nothing unusual about clearing into Malaysia,
except that you do have to re-check in and out every time you enter a harbor
that is a port of entry.
Firearms: Failure to declare firearms is a criminal offense with a
mandatory prison sentence. Conviction for firearms "smuggling"
carries the death penalty.
Navigation
There are five hazards in the Malacca Straits, which one
must transit to get from Singapore to Thailand via Malaysia:
Fishing boats, fishpots, nets, traps: In our
experience, these were by far the most dangerous to navigation of anything
else on this list. If you travel close to land (as the cruising guides
recommend), your prop is more likely to get fouled than not. Moreover,
dodging small, unlit vessels will be a constant activity.
Debris: Like fishing paraphernalia, debris
too is a significant danger to navigation if you stay close to land.
There are very big logs. There are masses of palm fronds with very big
logs hidden in the middle. There is much trash. There is a
phenomenon called "floating island," which I wouldn't have
believed existed if I hadn't seen it. Apparently, in heavy rains
entire cliffs, ledges, or whatever fall down intact into the Strait, where
the current proceeds to push them along. We saw such a floating
island, complete with two palm trees still standing. Thankfully, we
saw it during the daytime.
Commercial shipping: The Malacca Strait is
one of the busiest commercial shipping lanes in the world. Expect
several huge ships to pass you every hour, day and night. However,
after dealing with the fishpots and debris for a while, we came to see the
cargo ships as a lesser danger. For one thing, they stay in the
lanes marked on the chart. For another thing, they are properly
lit, and for the most part they abide by the rules of the road.
Moreover, because of the heavy flow of traffic (presumably), they tend to
answer on the VHF radio when you call them.
Pirates: Although the Strait has a big
reputation for piracy, it has been many years since an attempt was reported
against a private yacht. If you stay nearer the Malaysian side of the
Strait than the Indonesian side, you will minimize your risk even
more. The Strait is such a busy place that help is always within easy
call. I would categorize this danger is by far the least on this list.
No wind, or wind on the nose: Those are the
two options. Although wind problems are usually more of a nuisance
than a danger, the Malacca Strait is a special circumstance. Constant
tacking not only keeps you in the Strait longer than you have to be (thereby
increasing the probability of hitting debris), but also keeps you weaving in
and out of the fishing fleet and/or in and out of the shipping lanes and/or
into higher-risk Indonesian waters. We motored or motorsailed the
entire length of the Strait as fast as we could safely and economically go,
and in retrospect, after talking to many of our cruising friends, it was the
correct decision.
Here is the navigation strategy we used for the Malacca
Strait, and it worked very well for us:
We took on full fuel before tackling the Strait, and we
motored or motorsailed the entire distance at 2600 rpm, the rpm that is the
optimal one for us, balancing speed and fuel economy.
We plotted a detailed GPS course on the exact edge of the
shipping lanes, on the Malaysian side of the Strait. The lanes are
shown as dotted lines on the charts. Northbound, we literally drive
straight up the right-hand dotted line. The commercial vessels stayed
in the middle of the lanes, and the fishing boats (along with pots, nets,
etc.) stayed well outside them. So although we kept very good track of
every radar target at all times, we ended up never having to change course
for a vessel. The debris still existed on that course to some degree,
but far less so than nearer land.
Having said that, I will admit that it was not a
particularly easy or enjoyable trip. On watch, we neither one of us
ever left the cockpit, because some danger or other always required
monitoring. After a couple of day-hops, we chose to just get it over
with by passaging the rest of the way to Langkawi. Although we
considered the likelihood that floating debris was more of a danger at
night, the reality is that the debris was usually half-submerged in any
event, and often floating several feet below the surface where we couldn't
see it in advance even in the daytime. In broad daylight and paying
close attention, we often didn't see a hazard until we felt a thump or noticed
in horror the tail end of some huge log that had passed within meters.
But all's well that ends well. And when you get to
Langkawi, you're home free.
Port Dickson Area
Port Dickson makes a good stop in the Malacca
Strait. The marina is very nice, and the land-travel is
excellent. Although it is not listed as such in some cruising guides,
Port Dickson is definitely a port of entry to Malaysia, and it is the first
convenient one for a northbound yacht.
Marina
| Name |
Location |
Contact |
Notes |
| Admiral
Marina |
Port DIckson |
Gregory
Yap; +606-647-0888; fax +606-647-0889; VHF 14 on approach |
New, nice, well-run marina. Very highly
recommended. Some cruisers stay here year or longer. Many, incl
us, leave boat here safely for land travel to Kuala Lumpur & Melakka.
Pool, gym, small chandlery, laundry svc (but no machines, darn it), bar, Internet, fuel dock, etc.. Hardstand. Good
marine services nearby. Fuel dock. |
Important note for Admiral Marina approach:
GO TO THE WEBSITE or telephone before entry to get GPS waypoints for
approach. There is a sand bar in the middle of the bay and an unmarked
reef or two in the area as well. We used their northern-approach
waypoints and had a trouble-free entry. We used our own waypoints when
we left and bumped the sand bar at low tide. We then used their
southern-exit waypoints and had no trouble. The marina itself is too
new to be marked on the BA chart, but it is conspicuous on approach, with
large white buildings surrounding it.
Marine services
Many services in nearby Melakka and Port Klang. Ask
Greg.
Shopping & Entertainment
Sightseeing: Admiral Marina is an excellent place
to leave one's boat to travel to Kuala Lumpur and/or Melakka, both very
worthwhile sightseeing destinations. The marina office can arrange a
driver for a day's excursion, or you can rent a car or grab a bus in Port
Dickson.
Transport: Order a taxi from the marina's
front desk, or walk out onto the main road and flag one down. For the
latter, expect the taxi to stop and pick up other travelers as well and not
necessarily to drop you off first. Port Dickson, which has a large bus
station with regular departures for Malaysian cities, is 10 minutes away by
car. A commuter train station for Kuala Lumpur is about a 20-minute taxi ride from the
marina. The Kuala Lumpur International Airport is about an
hour's drive from the marina.
Shopping: Basic provisions are available in
Port Dickson, a 10-minute taxi ride away. Port DIckson also has a post
office and various shops in the central town square. There are
mini-markets perhaps a mile down the road from the marina in the opposite
direction from Port Dickson, along with some local eateries.
Langkawi
Marina & Anchorage
| Royal Langkawi Yacht Club |
Pulau Langkawi |
|
NIce, newly refurbished marina with 24-hour security.
Pool, restaurants, small shops, fuel dock. No laundry
machines. Try to time entrance
for slack tide, as a pesky current can run athwart slips |
| Rebak Marina |
|
|
Didn't stay here, so don't know anything
about it. |
Anchorage: Many boats are at anchor just off Kuah town, and it
looked OK, though we stayed at the marina (see above). There are
countless very pretty anchorages all around the island in this area, so plan to stay for at least a
week in addition to your duty-free shopping time. We were, alas, on a
tight schedule, so I have no notes on any of the anchorages.
The anchorages between Langkawi and Phuket are all very nice
-- you can't go wrong.
Marine Services
This area has a lot more marine services than the
cruising guides list -- perhaps because many facilities are so new.
There is a huge new boat-building complex with 2 painting sheds and a 200-ton
travelift: Wavemaster Langkawi Yacht Services, +604-966-5555. In Kuah
town is a large Yanmar diesel engine parts company. The Yacht Club will
point you in the right direction for anything else.
Shopping and Entertainment
Duty Free: Langkawi is most famous among yachties for its duty-free
status. This is the place to buy wine, liquor of all types, chocolates,
CDs, DVDs (if you missed the pirate stalls in Kuala Lumpur), etc. Prices
are significantly higher for all of these things in Thailand, so stock up.
Provisioning: Pretty good. There is a supermarket and an
open-air vegetable, fruit & fish market in Kuah town. I was told
that the best Western-type veg was in a market out by the airport, but I never
made it out there. You will find USA imported canned goods, cereal, and
other goodies unavailable elsewhere at a little shop called "Tasty and
Healthy" across the street from the chart copier (see Vendors We Like,
below).
Internet: At Langkawi Fair, an indoor shopping mall on the main road
between the marina and town (and easily walking distance from the marina) is a
very nice Internet Cafe (upstairs), along with many nice shops.
Thailand
General Information
Thailand has great cruising grounds -- gorgeous
one-of-a-kind anchorages. In fact, if asked I would say plan most of
your South-East Asian time here. Apart from phenomenal scenery, the
Phuket area has the advantage of having great provisioning and good access to
many marine services. There are three downsides to cruising in Thailand,
though, and they are significant downsides.
First, if you have boat work to accomplish here, be aware
that the language barrier is extreme. The Thai language is a complex
tonal language in which only the simplest phrases can be mastered by a "Farang"
(us) without spending a lot of time on it. And conversely, English is
very difficult for most Thais. As a practical matter, do not expect
anyone to speak much English at all. This is not a problem in the normal
tourist interchange, but it becomes one when a complex repair is
required. It occasionally helps to write English words down if you are
having a hard time being understood. Also (and I know this sounds
strange, but it works) speak your English as if you had as many speech
impediments as you can imitate, and it will be more understandable. (I don't
know why; I know only that it works.)
The second downside to cruising in Thailand is importing
parts or supplies. If you can't find it here, it is cheaper and easier
and far more reliable to have it sent in to Langkawi, Malaysia (duty free) and
then to sail the overnighter to go get it than to order it directly in to
Phuket! In a related note, the Thai mail service is not
recommended. If you must have something shipped in, you're far better
off with Fedex or UPS (offices in Phuket Town).
The final downside is immigration. As captain or crew
entering by yacht, your visa is good for only 30 days, even if it was obtained
in advance and even if it says 60 or 90 days on its face. It is
not extendable for the first expiration, except by a mere 10-15 days if
you are in a marina and your boat is having work done and the
marina will write you a letter in the Thai language to that effect.
Before expiration, therefore, you must do your "visa run" outside
the country. The visa run is such a staple of life here that you will
see it advertised at travel agencies! You can either (a) clear out and
do the overnighter or (more typically) island-hop in a leisurely way down to
Langkawi, Malaysia, on board your boat; or (b) leave the boat in Thailand and
fly or take other transport out of the country and back. BUT if the
captain or crew leaves and the boat stays, you must post a bond at a
bank. Bond posting is not any particular problem, but plan to spend a
full day getting it taken care of. Tip: It is sometimes possible
for everyone on board except the captain to be listed as "passenger(s)"
instead of crew. Passengers can fly out without posting a bond for the
boat. So if, for example, the wife plans to fly home from Thailand for
Christmas and the husband will remain with the boat, list him as
"captain" and her as "passenger," and no bond will be
required when she departs. If both fly home, or if she is listed as
captain or crew and she departs alone, a bond must be posted.
Having said all that, don't on any account miss
Thailand. It is one of the most breathtaking, most unique cruising grounds
in the world.
Entry
To clear in, the yacht's captain must visit three officers:
Port captain, customs, and immigration. There are two possible ports of
entry for a non-shoal-draft boat: Phuket and Krabi.
Phuket: Enter at Phuket in one of two ways:
 | Anchor at Ao Chalong. Take dinghy into shore, where
all three officials can often be found in one spot, a newly created yacht
clearance center right there in Ao Chalong. Then, if you are
unlucky and one or more is missing, take taxi to Phuket Town to main
office of whichever service you need; OR |
| Dock at marina, then rent car or taxi to take you either to Ao
Chalong one-stop-clearance office or to Phuket Town to main offices. |
Either way, have many copies of everything and be prepared
to be very, very patient. Clearance is a half day's entertainment. If you
arrive after noon, it is unlikely that you will find all three officials that
day, and it's probably better all the way around if you wait until the next
morning. Official offices are closed on weekends. Nobody seems to
worry too much about one's going ashore if check-in is delayed by timing of arrival.
Krabi: Anchor in the nearest bay and check
in. Although it is reputedly somewhat easier to do so here than Phuket,
the rule is that you must check out from the same port at which you checked in.
Since most people prefer to depart from Phuket, Krabi doesn't get that much
business.
Firearms: Phuket officials normally allow non-handgun
firearms to remain locked on board.
Navigation
Cruising Guides: Sail Thailand (excellent);
and Indian Ocean Crossing Guide.
Charts: The BA charts cover too large an area to be reliable indicators.
Accordingly, Thai government charts, which are more detailed and quite cheap,
are very good things to have. Buy copies in Langkawi (see Vendors,
below), or buy originals at Yacht Haven Marina or Boat Lagoon in Phuket, or
ask at Jimmy's Lighthouse in Ao Chalong where the nearest place to buy is if
you don't want to attempt getting up to the marinas without the charts.
Hazards: Navigation hazards include fishing boats and marine
farms. The boats drop nets and traps that are marked by a brightly
colored flag atop a float. They are easy to see, but you have to pay
constant attention to avoid hitting one. Marine farms are nets and traps
topped by actual huts, and they tend to be relatively stationary. The
waters of the Phang Nga Bay cruising ground are very shallow in spots.
Thai government charts are recommended.
Anchorages
[Still trying out and enjoying more anchorages here.
Will post full report later.]
Marinas: Island of Phuket
There are two marinas on Phuket Island. They're both
really good, so choice depends on your priorities, their availability, and the
boat's draft.
| Name |
Contact |
Notes |
| Yacht
Haven |
Nick
& Zara, 141/2 Moo 2, Tumbol Maikhao Thalang, Phuket 83110;
+66-76-206-704; fax +66-76-206-706 |
Upside: Excellent, well-run marina
w/ lots of dock power; great restaurant, car rental, Internet; deep
& easy entrance channel; near Phang Nga Bay cruising; 24-hr security;
fuel and water.
Downside: 30-45 minutes from Phuket Town, so must
rent car or hire driver; showers are LONG walk from boat (so everyone
showers on board); no haul-out; no laundry machines but good laundry
svc.
|
| Boat Lagoon |
(Didn't stay here, so have no contact
details.) |
Upside: Near marine & shopping
centers; good haul-out facility; restaurants, Internet, some services
& shopping at marina itself;
Downside: Shallow
entrance (too shallow for us at 2.4 meters); very crowded with local
boats, must book well ahead
|
Marine Services
Most, perhaps all, normal marine services are available on
Phuket Island, especially at or near Boat Lagoon Marina. (See Vendors We
Like, below.) Yacht Haven delivers fuel to your yacht in the marina by
small barge.
Shopping and Entertainment
Provisioning: This is definitely the place to
provision for your Indian Ocean crossing. On Phuket Island, grocery
shopping is excellent at either Tesco or Big C, both near Boat Lagoon.
BIg C has a "gourmet" section with some American and Australian
brands. Phuket Meat (Chaofa Nai
Rd, 076-264-043, fax 076-264-360), which carries New Zealand beef, chicken,
seafood, and cheeses, will vacuum-pack and freeze an order and deliver it to your boat in
a freezer van. Another butcher with a good reputation is Phuket Meat
Importers, which also carries deli meats and homemade tortilla chips.
Some hard-to-find American and Euro delicacies are available at Sinn & Lee
(49 Thalang Road, Phuket, 076-258-369). At the Tesco center is also a
Home-Pro (Home Depot). The Marriott Hotel on Phuket Island (about 10
minutes' drive north of Yacht haven Marina) has a deli on the ground floor
that has things like bagels, sour-dough bread, pastries, chocolates, gourmet
curry paste, and ground espresso beans.
Other shopping: Thai silk is very big here, and
you can have custom-made clothing tailored at small expense. Electronics
and DVDs are not good value at all.
Thai Massage: Don't leave Thailand without
having a Thai massage on the beach. It will cost about US$7 or less for
an hour. Most Farangs (us) wear their bathing suits, though I noticed
that local people stay fully clothed. If you stay at Yacht Haven, a good place for your Thai massage is on the beach behind the
Marriott, about 10 minutes' drive north of the marina. Anchorages at Petong Beach and
Phi Phi Don are also good venues.
Vendors We Like
This is a list of vendors and services we happen to have
used and can recommend wholeheartedly. The absence of a name here means
nothing at all.
| Type |
Location |
Name |
Contact |
Notes |
| Butcher |
Phuket |
Phuket
Meat |
Chaofa Nai Rd, 076-264-043 |
Will vacuum-pack, freeze, and deliver |
| Chart Copies |
Langkawi |
S.K.
Intertrade |
8
Jalan Pandak Mayah, 1 Kuah; +604-966-7778
|
Has BA & Thai govt chart copies; also
sells copies of cruiser notes. |
| Charts |
Singapore |
Motion Smith |
|
BA charts worldwide, best prices in SEast
Asia |
| Electronics (non-marine) |
Singapore |
Chun Huat Electronics |
Benjamin
Yeo, Sim Lim Tower, 65-6294-4777 |
Excellent prices, reputable seller. |
| Engine Repair |
Phuket |
Rauf
Nuwanna |
Mr. Rauf, 09-866-3873 |
Highly recommended. |
| Engine Repair |
Phuket |
Wasan |
Mr. Wasan, 09-866-3552 |
| Marinas (see country sections above) |
|
|
|
|
| Medical Care |
Singapore |
International
Medical Clinic |
19 Tanglin Rd (off Orchard Rd),
65-6733-4440 |
|
| Provisioning: American brands |
Langkawi |
Tasty & Healthy |
Jalan Pandak Mayah, 04-966-7077 |
Across from City Bayview Hotel |
| Phuket |
Sinn & Lee |
49 Thalang Rd, 076-258-369 |
In Phuket Town |
| Refrigeration Repair |
Port Dickson |
Exclusive Horizon Refrigeration Repair |
Mr. Chai, Lukut; 019-660-6495 |
|
| Sails |
Phuket |
Rolly
Tasker Sails |
Rolly
or Michael Tasker, 66-76-280-347 |
World-class sailmaker. Also has
courtesy flags. |
| Taxi Service |
Phuket |
Mr. Rat Sri-on |
Mr. Rat (yes, Rat), 09-195-0861;
076-241-267 |
For about US$19 per day, he will drive you
all over the island to run errands and provision. Good guy. |
| Woodwork |
Phuket |
Nai & Toe |
076-239-712 |
At Boat Lagoon |
| | |
Voyage of Heartsong III