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**IMPORTANT NOTE: The information below is NOT intended to
be complete, but rather is selective, opinionated, and reflects our own
particular experience at the time.**
Cruising Notes for Turkey -- May 2003
Turkey is a don't-miss country. It will be a major highlight on
anyone's voyage, no matter where else they go in the world. It is
spectacularly beautiful, and the people are hearty and happy and genuinely
friendly. We loved our time here, and we will most certainly come back
again someday soon.
Prices here are based on May 2003 exchange rates: US$1 =
1,500,000 Turkish lira = Euro .86.
Books & Charts
Cruising guide: The Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot, by Rod
Heikell (Imray), 6th ed., is excellent and indispensible.
Paper Charts: The marinas carry Imray charts. The
Turkish government has published a good detailed set of charts for Turkey that
costs less than Imray and is about half the price of BA charts. However, we had a lot of trouble finding them.
I finally
found a complete stock of the government charts at a nameless fishing-gear
store in Marmaris. Here are the directions: From Netsel Marina,
cross the pedestrian bridge towards town. Make an immediate right to walk
along the canal. At the first street, turn left. (This street has
no name, but it's the one with the bridge that crosses the
canal.) About half a block up on your left, you will see a shop with
fishing gear in the windows and a tiny sign that says
"charts." Take your Turkish dictionary with you. It's
maybe a five-minute walk from Netsel. These charts are
bound to be readily available, but I did not see them anywhere else.
Entry
Visa: Americans will be dismayed by the new charge for a visa -- US$100 per
person for a standard 90 days. The Turkish authorities told us that
the new charge is in response to the increase in the cost of an American visa
for Turkish tourists in this amount. The immigration officials will not
issue a receipt. If the visa says "single-entry," you might
want to just confirm with the official that it is actually a multiple-entry
visa. When we were there, they didn't yet have a stamp that said
"multiple-entry," but we had no trouble getting back into the
country when we left it for a day-trip on the ferry to Rhodes, Greece.
We were given conflicting official opinions as to whether we would need to buy
a new Turkish visa upon return if we stayed out of the country overnight or
longer.
Customs: Entry information is correct in the Pilot. We
did not investigate bonding our boat (for long-term storage of the boat and/or
for flying out of the country).
Note on Day-Ferry Bond Exception: From Marmaris, it is
possible to take a fast ferry to Rhodes, Greece, for the day. From
Bodrum, one can similarly visit Kos. We were told in Marmaris that as long as the captain
does not spend the night in Greece (but goes and comes back on the same day), no
bond is required to leave the boat in Turkey, even though the crew is
technically exiting the country. We took the ferry to Rhodes for the day and returned with no problem and no extra
charge. (See
Marmaris section for more details on this excellent sightseeing option.)
General Information
Weather: Greek VHF Radio (Olympia Radio) broadcasts the weather in
English. In the Greek Waters Pilot is a map of area names for
purposes of this wx broadcast. In 2003, there is an excellent SSB net
with weather on 8122 at 0830 local (GMT +3). Satcom-C has the exact same
weather forecasts broadcast by Olympia Radio. Again, to know which of
the many small areas you are in, consult the Greek Waters Pilot.
Money: There are ATMs in every town of any size. Avoid the money-changer stores;
they charge exorbitant commissions. We had our best luck by walking
around comparing
rates & commissions at several banks. Expect to pay European prices
for most things, including restaurant meals and groceries. Our main
problem with Turkish money was that it has too many zeroes and no commas.
My eyes kept crossing trying to tell the difference between L500000 and
L5000000.
Marinas Generally: TURKISH MARINAS ARE AMONG THE MOST EXPENSIVE IN
THE WORLD. I have heard that they used to be incredible value, but no
longer. Expect to pay between US$1 and US$1.30 per foot per night at the
major marinas -- about twice what we paid in Australia, New Zealand, and
Southeast Asia. The marinas where we stayed were all quite nice indeed, but we are still reeling from the
cost (exacerbated, it is true, by the low American dollar this year).
Regardless of the inflated price, though, all of the marinas in Turkey are packed
with yachts. So apparently the Turks are merely applying the laws of supply and demand. Here are a couple of money-saving tips:
 | If you are planning to stay in Turkey for more than a couple of months,
look into a year's contract. Not only is a year's contract about the
same cost as a couple of months, it also usually entitles you to stay at
all marinas in that particular chain up and down the Turkish
coast. |
| Most major towns have several marinas, and there may be one or two that
are older, smaller, not as nice, but a little less expensive. |
The usual marina berthing system is a modified Med-moor. You don't
need to drop your anchor. You back in and tie up stern-to after picking
up a bow line attached to an underwater mooring system (called a "laid
mooring"). We never saw a finger pier in any marina; nor were we
allowed to tie side-to the quay anywhere except for fuel. Accordingly,
here are some tips:
| Invest in a really good passarelle (gangplank) system that is sturdy and
deploys quickly. We bought one at Marmaris and had stainless
fittings installed on the stern. Total cost was about US$400. |
| Invest in enough good, large fenders to cover both sides of your
boat, plus at least one to protect your stern from the quay. The
usual 3 or 4 that have worked fine at finger piers elsewhere in the world
are simply not enough. We bought 6 new oversized fenders in Marmaris
and although I hate storing them while underway, they have paid for their
cost and inconvenience many times over. |
Fuel: In Turkey in May 2003, we paid the most for fuel of
anywhere we have been in the world so far: US$1 per liter (about
US$3.79/gal). On mainland Greece in June 2003, diesel was significantly
cheaper, about US$2.85.gal. We did not price fuel on any of the Greek
islands. (In the Red Sea the cost of diesel fuel was more
like US$1/gal, so we were totally spoiled.)
Souvenirs: Just in case I haven't made this clear yet, there
are no bargains in Turkey anymore. You will
probably pay more for the same
Turkish rug in Istanbul than you would in New York. (But shopping for
them is still fun.)
Shore Dress (Islam-related issues): Although Islam is the stated
religion of 99% of the Turkish people, Turkey has a secular government.
Accordingly, Turks all have a choice as to what level to practice their religion (think
Baptists at a disco) -- and many choose not to practice it at
all. As for female attire, some of the local women wear head coverings and
long skirts; some wear short-shorts and halter tops; and most wear something in between. The more rural you get, the more conservatively
the women dress
-- so I took Islam-friendly total-cover outfits to the interior and was happy
I did. In Istanbul and Ankara, people mainly wear western business suits. But in the coastal tourist towns, expect to see
tourists walking
around in swimwear with or without cover-ups. There is also -- be
forewarned -- an unfortunate abundance of large older German women sunning
themselves topless on the beach. Ashore along the coast,
Alan and I wore our usual western yachtie uniform of long walking shorts and a
polo shirt during the day and resort-wear at night, and we felt appropriate
and occasionally overdressed.
Note on Laundry: I found no true self-service
laundromats in Turkey, at least along the coast where we cruised.
Laundry services, however, are everywhere at a cost of about US$6 per
kilo. They vary in quality. On at least two occasions, I am certain that the laundry
service spun my things in the drier for a few minutes,
sprayed them with smell-good stuff, and returned them to me unwashed.
This -- along with merely rinsing clothes without actually using detergent -- seems
to be a common theme in the middle-eastern countries we have visited.
(Do they think we can't tell?) The only good solution is to do
the laundry aboard the boat. Or else stand there until they put it in
the washer and add detergent, and the water starts running. One sexist
note: Most middle-eastern (including Turkish) laundries are run by men.
On the few occasions I have been able to seek out a female-run laundry, it has
done a far better job.
Note on Fish Dinners: Fish is
expensive in Turkish restaurants, usually the most expensive thing on the
menu. Presumably it's because the Med is fished out, and they actually
have to import frozen fish from somewhere else. (!) We wish we had
filled up the freezer before we got here.
Cruising Strategy
Port of Entry Choices: The coast of Turkey is long and
fascinating enough for several years' worth
of cruising. In fact, we know several boats that have been there for for
a decade or longer! Coming straight from Egypt and planning to spend only one season in Turkey,
we headed directly
for Marmaris and would definitely do the same again. The yards and chandleries are well-equipped, and the
cruising just slightly south and just slightly north of the Marmaris area is gorgeous
-- maybe even more so than anywhere else along the coast to the southeast
(which we saw from the road by car). We cruised only between Fethiye and
Bodrum and happily felt that we saw some of the very best of the Turkish
coastline. Alternatively, many yachts go first to Finike or
Antalya, especially if coming from Cyprus. Both Finike and Antalya have
very good marina and boatyard facilities, Antalya probably more so.
Note on Sailing Back and Forth Between Turkey and Greece: Turkey
and Greece are so close that it's really tempting, not to mention being often
a logical sail-plan, to jump back and forth. We were warned against
doing so by other cruisers on the basis of cost. Every time you enter
Turkey with the boat, you must re-purchase a Transit Log (about US$80) and
possibly a new visa for each crew member (US$100), depending (apparently) on
the mood of the immigration official at your port of entry. It is rumored that
Greece, in addition to requiring re-purchase of a similar Transit Log upon
each entry," illegally" imposes an additional substantial fine/tax on private
yachts that leave Greece and return within a 30-day period. So we opted
not to sail back and forth. (Caveat: We do not personally know anyone
that has been required to pay the "illegal" Greek fine/tax.
The Log and visa re-purchases alone, along with the usual half-day spent obtaining
each one, plus the risk of the fine/tax, were reason enough to make us finish up with Turkey before heading
to Greece.)
Ports & Anchorages
Marmaris: Netsel Marina
Although this area is highly touristed, we liked it a lot -- especially for
R&R after the Red Sea.
Berthing/anchorage: Netsel Marina, where we stayed, is expensive but
big and nice with what may well be the best bathroom block in the world. Also,
you can anchor off town beach in approx 36deg50.98'N, 028deg16.18'E, good
holding in sand. We used the dock off the marina office to leave the dinghy when going
ashore from anchorage; or you can come into the canal area near the Netsel
pedestrian bridge. Marina office is to right of travellift, at the back of
marina as you enter from sea. There are two other nice marinas in the
area: Marmarin Marina and Marti Marina, both of which are about a 25-minute
bus or taxi ride from the main town.
Marine Services: Many small chandleries are just outside Netsel as
you walk towards town (after the footbridge, make an immediate right instead
of continuing onto "boardwalk"). There is a long strip of boat
service places (canvas makers, carpenters, painters, mechanics, etc.) on an
alley just behind the Netsel office. Anything you need, you can buy or
have done here.
Fuel: 1.56 million Turkish lira per liter, at marina fuel
dock. In May 2003, this worked out to be about US$3.80/gallon.
Haulout: Haulout at Netsel is absurdly expensive. Better options are
Marmaris Yacht Marine, which is southeast across bay; and Marti Marina (where
we hauled -- see Orhaniye, below), to the west on the other side of peninsula.
Internet: There is a phone connection for laptops in the Netsel
office. On your laptop, under "My Computer," configure a new dial-up
connection to dial "0,146," and don't make any other changes to the
default settings. In connection dialog box, type "default" for
username; do not enter a password at all. Pay for connection time at
office desk afterwards -- about US$10/hr. Also at the office is a free
stand-alone Internet connection terminal. Internet Cafes are all over town,
but the connection rate is surprisingly slow.
Town generally: There are approx 100 restaurants & bars along
boardwalk and in marina. Large supermarket called "Tansas" is on
street that intersects waterfront at Attaturk statue. If you walk through
covered bazaar behind waterfront between Attaturk statue and marina, you will
come into the old town, which has Byzantine castle, feta/olive merchants,
spice merchants, veg mkt, laundry services, etc. "Big market" is on
Fridays. Excellent hair salon is Nirvana, across st from Tansas (ask for Nesha).
For bar-hopping, try "bar alley" near footbridge that goes to
marina. There is a movie theater with American movies subtitled in Turkish.
DVDs can be rented from shop in old town (from Netsel, cross the footbridge
that says "Netsel Shopping Center"; take hard right and walk
alongside canal; take left at first street (the one with the bridge); continue
walking abt 2-3 blocks; DVD rental place is on right, across from Internet
Cafe. Small vegetable market is off same street, before you get to DVD
store.) Netsel has a very nice pool, which anyone can use for
4mil lira per day. Best place to change money is the bank/western union
office right next door to the main post office (to the left of it as you face
it). To find the main post office, go to the Tansas Supermarket.
As you are walking with the Tansas on your left, take an immediate left at the
end of that block. Walk about 3 blocks, and the post office will be on
your right.
Restaurants We Liked Best:
1. Compana (upstairs in Netsel Marina). Owned by mother-daughter team.
Superb homemade pasta dishes. Also, the spicy steak with gorgonzola &
green peppercorns is to die for. Relatively expensive, but excellent
value.
2. Kosk (prounounced kooshk, I think). On boardwalk. Good mezzes &
hot Turkish bread. Tell Charlie hi.
3. Pizza/pide place: Near laundry in Netsel. Very cheap & good food,
esp for lunch or takeout. Does not serve liquor.
4. Sea Club (at marina). Great-value weekend breakfast buffet, but expensive for dinner.
Note on "salt fish": A Marmaris specialty is the
"salt-encrusted" fish, served en flambe. We did this once
with a group for tourist value. If your waiter recommends it, be sure to ask
the price, as it may not be on the menu and could be upwards of US$100.
Music: If you see "Grup Turkuaz" playing at a restaurant
or bar, do not miss them. Apart from a few regrettable corny American tunes,
they are a uniquely wonderful show-band -- from Abba to opera. Teenagers
probably won't enjoy, but we danced till we dropped and were on our feet
clamoring for encores with the rest of the crowd. (Of course, it could have
had something to do with the Turkish champagne we had been drinking all
night.)
Ferry to Rhodes: Catamaran ferry takes less than 1 hr; departs
Netsel at 0900, returns 1630. Worth doing, esp since docking is problematic in
Rhodes. Three boats of our acquaintance had damage there while tied to the
quay, from either ferry wakes or being hit at speed by local gulets.
Interyouth Hostel (in bazaar in central town not far from Attaturk statue)
sells round-trip for E$35 as opposed to E$45 at ferry office. Nobody charged
us any of the port taxes mentioned in Lonely Planet. If yacht's capt spends
night in Rhodes, however, we were told at marina that Turkish yacht bond is
required, so we recommend going for the day only. That's plenty of time
to sight-see the town.
Gocek/Fethiye Area
I think that this huge bay with innumerable
good anchorages is one of the most scenically spectacular areas in the
world. There is no snorkeling to speak of, but the water is clear, and
the bays are mountainous and green, with snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Recommended anchorages follow (Turkish chart #3122; page numbers are Heikell 6th
ed.):
Kucuk Kuyruk (p. 231). Pretty little bay with turquoise water &
lovely view. Book recommends taking stern line ashore, but we didn't & it
was fine.
Tomb Bay (p. 236). We anchored overnight in 25 ft and ran a line to
shore off the small rocky beach on the N side of the bay. From the beach, you
can climb up to ancient tombs. The path is unclear at first -- just climb as
best you can, starting up to the left, and the path will materialize just
beneath first set of tombs. More tombs continuing around the headland to the
east.
Tersane Creek (p. 237). At northwestern tip of Tersane Adasi is a
well-sheltered inlet with ruins ashore. We anchored overnight in 30 ft and ran
stern line to white-plastic-bottle-buoyed line that gulets use. We ate at the
tiny taverna ashore, and the food was excellent -- large servings of grilled
lamb or fish "complete" with several side dishes for about US$10.
The bay was too crowded with daytrippers for us to anchor in the daytime, so
we waited until about 1700 and had it almost to ourselves until mid-morning
next day. Sunset here in dead calm is glorious, with ruins reflecting in
water, etc.
Yassica Adalari (p. 238). Six islands. We anchored for the afternoon
just S of the center shoals about halfway up W side of the long skinny island.
An even more scenic place would have been between the islands at the
northernmost tip of the group. (Caveat: We saw another yacht anchored in that
area, but we don't know what they draw -- might be too shallow for some.) The
spit at the north end of the long skinny island is a rocky beach. Locals were
there in tents selling food & drink. From that spit, the views of
snow-capped peaks are breathtaking.
Gocek (p. 239). Several marinas, or one can anchor. Port Gocek
Marina is new, nice, and expensive. Excellent provisioning & good
restaurants.
Other bays: We stuck our nose in a half dozen bays in Skopea Limani
and just floated around for a few hours while swimming, eating lunch, etc.
They are all gorgeous. One rule of thumb told to us by locals: If you see a
gulet, the bay is probably very nice to visit. We never found a really good
beach, but I've had enough of sand for a good long while. :-)
Orhaniye: Marti Marina
Berthing/anchorage: We stayed at Marti Marina, a darling place that we
liked very much. There are flowers everywhere and a particularly nice
pool/lounging area up at the restaurant/bar. The bay itself
is very nice, and there are many places here where we saw boats at anchor.
As usual, go stern-to after picking up a bow line to an underwater mooring
system.
Haulout: Marti Marina has the advantage of being approx half the cost to
haul as Netsel Marina with most of the same amenities. Also, Marti uses steel supports for their
hardstand, as opposed to the wooden supports used elsewhere. We have
several times been appalled at seeing some huge yacht propped up on what
look like driftwood logs in a Turkish boatyard. It's
mind-boggling. For berthage, Marti Marina is only slightly less than Netsel per
night in high season, but long-stay discounts are available.
Marine Services: There is a small chandlery inside the grocery
store, and they'll order stuff in from Marmaris. Some Marmaris
boat-builders keep offices here, and we had no trouble getting workers to
come out from Marmaris at no extra charge.
Land lodging: While on the hard, we stayed at a family-run pension
within walking distance of Marti Marina -- the Erol Motel. Our
spic-and-span room was spartan but darling, with en suite
bath. We paid US$24/night for two persons including breakfast and
dinner, which was some of the best food we had the entire time in
Turkey. There is also a nice pool area and a central satellite TV
viewing area. By any standard, the lodging was excellent value, and
the family is delightful.
Transportation: Marti Marina runs a free shuttle to Marmaris town
several times daily. There is also the local dolmus white van
that runs regularly for a small charge, from the main road. Also, in a
pinch you can hire a car from the marina for US$25. A taxi runs about
US$40 round trip, with some stops.
Provisioning & Internet: There is a small but well-stocked
supermarket within the marina. At the marina office is an Internet
stand at which you can either use their computer or BYOL. The same
settings and dial-up number that they let you use at Netsel Marina work
here, too (see above).
Restaurants & Amenities: Both restaurants at the marina are pretty good and reasonably priced. There are a couple of
local restaurants on the main road to the town of Orhaniye, but not much
else within any kind of walking distance. One of the very best parts
about Marti Marina is the pool area, which is surrounded by flowers, shady
places to relax, a furnished outdoor pavilion, and hammocks -- a glorious
place to spend the siesta portion of the afternoon.
Laundry: Marti has a reliable female-operated service.
Although they advertise they have self-service machines, don't get
excited. First off, it's only one washer and one dryer. Second,
it costs more to do a load in them than it costs for the service to do it
for you. And third, the token they give you for the dryer lasts only
30 minutes -- not half long enough to get even a modest load dry -- so you
have to buy another token to finish drying, which then puts the cost
of doing one load of laundry right up there with a cruise missile.
Finally, the space is a tiny, windowless, un-airconditioned, sauna with
pterodactyl-mosquitoes. I opted to use the service.
Datca Peninsula/Hisoranu Bay
Kuyulu Buku (36deg47.67'N, 28deg04.88'E): We anchored in 30 ft
sand, good holding, in the northernmost of the two coves, tucked up into the
southwest side. This is a lovely anchorage, with gorgeous water, small
beaches, cliffs, and no buildings. Local families picnic here on
weekends. We liked it a lot.
Kuruka Buku (36deg45.14'N, 27deg53.6'E): We anchored in 58
ft, good holding. This is a popular anchorage with local gulets.
There is a hotel and swimming area with platform.
Knidos (36deg41.04'N, 27deg22.46'E): Very poor holding in mud and grass. We actually
dragged here for the first time ever, but didn't feel too bad since
everybody else did, too. About a dozen of us had a
Chinese fire drill re-setting our anchors when the wind
changed at sunset (as it usually does, I'm told). It's a beautiful
anchorage, though, with amphitheater ruins on the hillside and good hiking.
Note on rounding the point at Knidos: The Pilot says that
the wind and waves rounding the end of this peninsula can be high. We
did it at dawn and, as usual at dawn in Turkey, had a flat calm.
Bodrum
Berthing: Bodrum Marina -- excellent, new, clean, large,
crowded, well-run marina
at the usual high Turkish price per night for a short stay. Major
plus: the shower blocks are air-conditioned!
Anchorage: The main anchorage off the town is very poor holding. We
know two yachts that dragged in a big way, one almost disastrously. The Pilot lists some
anchorages in the burbs, but I'd recommend coughing up the cash for a couple of
nights at the marina to be nearer to town.
Town Generally: Bodrum is one of the prettiest little
Turkish towns that we saw -- and we saw quite a few. It has some sightseeing that really shouldn't
be missed. The castle and mausoleum are great, with amazing views. On
Thursdays and Fridays, there is an excellent produce market just past the
horse statute in town. The
waterfront has many good restaurants; and the marina mall has
numerous upscale shops. The small grocery store in the marina mall
will deliver to the boat. There is a multiple-movie theater in the
shopping mall northeast of town. The big supermarket near the movie
shopping mall was a disappointment; the little store near the marina had all
the same stuff, just smaller quantities. Internet is at the marina
office. There is a good little female-operated laundry service (better hours and much
cheaper than the marina's) just across the main street from the barrier-gate
automobile entrance to the marina, next to a car rental place.
Land Travel
We rented a car in Marmaris (US$30/day including insurance and mileage)
and spent two weeks seeing a little of the interior of Turkey. It was
a highlight of the circumnavigation, and we plan to come back again someday soon.
Warning: Everyone says Turkish drivers are the worst in the world.
Although we would put some money on Kiwi, Egyptian, and Thai drivers, too,
we can't really disagree.
Our route:
| Marmaris to Antalya via coast road (lovely ocean views around Finike) |
| Overland from Antalya to Cappadoccia |
| Cappadoccia to Ankara |
| Ankara to Istanbul |
| Istanbul to Finike via Eskihaye |
| Finike to Marmaris via mountain road (amazing views and small
villages) |
Here are some notes on the main areas where we stopped.
Cappadoccia (Kapadokya)
DO NOT MISS this area. I won't describe it in general, because so
many guidebook pages are devoted to it (here are our photos). Rather, I will give some
specific recommendations from our trip.
Travel strategy: Although there are several towns with lodging
and sights to see, we stayed in one hotel in Goreme -- sort of in the
center -- and staged days of sightseeing from there. Everything is
within a very easy driving distance -- from 15 minutes to at most 45
minutes.
Lodging: We loved our stay in the cave hotel in Goreme called
the Kermedec Hotel. The best rooms are ## 16 and 17. Room #17 is indescribably
romantic -- perhaps the most charming hotel room I've ever seen. Room
#16 has a sitting room, a jacuzzi, and a king-sized bed. The food at the restaurant
here is at least as good as anywhere else in town. The atmosphere is
wonderful. The view is magnificent. In short, we recommend
this place -- excellent value.
Tip: Buy candles and matches upon your arrival. Even if
the electricity stays on the whole time in this city (which it usually
doesn't), you'll find yourself wanting to put candles in all the many
nooks and holders in your room.
Area Tour: We hired the Kermedec's resident guide for a day to
take us around to the main sights. She spoke excellent English and
was a fun, knowledgeable, comfortable companion for the day. We
recommend having such a guide for the outdoor museum, the fairy chimneys,
and for finding local artisan workshops.
Underground City: Fascinating place. We hired a charming
English-speaking guide, an older gentleman who had actually played in the
underground caves as a child. Without his stories and information, I
don't think we would have enjoyed this marvel half so much. [Will
post his phone number when I find it.]
Ihlara Gorge: Sort of
a miniature, manageable Grand Canyon -- excellent hiking.
Monastery: Our guide took us up the back way, which I
don't recommend unless you have on good non-skid shoes and are OK with
heights. If after this climb you make it up the 104
vertical inner-tower steps to the top of the monastery, you are a better
person than I am.
Hiking generally: Just set off. There are trails
everywhere, and they're all fascinating.
Restaurants: Forgettable.
Local wine: Forgettable but drinkable.
Shopping: Better than anywhere else in Turkey that we
went. The main thing I would recommend shopping for are the
ceramics. The "Iznik" vases and
plates are astounding in workmanship, and are quite good value in
comparison to ceramics we have seen elsewhere in the world. The same
quality vase will cost twice as much in Istanbul and is unavailable on the
coast, where we saw only bottom-of-the-line pieces at inflated
prices. Local rugs, too, are much better value here than in Marmaris or
Istanbul.
Istanbul
Lodging: We lucked into a superb place called the Side (SEE-deh)
Hotel (212-517-2282, info@sidehotel.com).
Ask for one of the two rooms on the top floor with large balconies.
The rooms are tiny and spartan, but clean and new-looking and charmingly
decorated, with en suite bath -- all for US$50/night for a double,
including full breakfast -- excellent value in Istanbul. All the
main sights are within a few minutes' walk; indeed, we had a partial view
of both the Blue Mosque and Ayia Sofya from our balcony. To put
the price in perspective, the Four Season Istanbul is directly across the
street, with double rooms for about US$300.
Driving: Driving is a challenge in Istanbul. We parked our
car near the hotel and took public transport or walked.
Sightseeing: We hit the highlights, all within short
walking distance of the Side Hotel (except the Grand Bazaar, which is more
like a 40-minute walk).
| Blue Mosque: Men should wear long pants, or they will be given a
stinky sarong to cover their legs. Women should wear long pants
or a long skirt, with a top that covers the shoulders, or they will be
given ditto. Although head coverings are apparently not required
for western women, all of the local women were wearing one, so I put
mine on, too, and felt more appropriate. |
| Ayia Sofya: Don't miss. |
| Topkapi Palace: Don't miss. We spent half a day here, and
really we needed more time. |
| Bosphorus Boat Tour: The half-day trip (booked with the agent at the
Side Hotel) was perfect. A full day would have been too
much. They will pick you up and return you to your hotel by bus
-- very convenient. |
| Grand Bazaar: Interesting few hours, but nothing's a bargain unless
your negotiating skills are far better than mine.. There is a
particularly interesting shop with antique and high-quality Meerschaum
pipes (which -- did you know? -- are made from a porous stone found
only in Turkey). |
Ankara
Restaurants: We ate at the Zenger Pasa Konagt, recommended by
the Lonely Planet. Three of the four of us got very very very
very very very sick.
Lodging: Hotel Ogulturk was good value, comfortable, clean and
quite helpful when we got very very very
very very very sick.
[More Later -- hands are cramping up from typing!]
| | |
Voyage of Heartsong III